How You Can Stomp Grapes within the Douro Valley in Portugal

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How You Can Stomp Grapes within the Douro Valley in Portugal

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Do you do not forget that one episode of “I Love Lucy” the place Lucy is stomping grapes in an enormous wood vat (after which will get right into a struggle with an Italian woman)? I nonetheless bear in mind the primary time I noticed that episode as a child (thanks, Nick and Nite and my grandma who allow us to watch cable TV at her home!). Something about it made sufficient of an impression for me to place “stomp grapes to make wine” on my journey bucket record, not figuring out it was an exercise the typical individual might really do.

But guess what? There are completely nonetheless locations on the earth the place they stomp grapes with their naked toes – and sure, even locations the place vacationers can pitch in to assist!

One of those locations is the Douro Valley, a well-known wine-producing area in northern Portugal the place many winemakers nonetheless do issues the guide method – proper right down to how they press their grapes.

Douro Valley viewpoint with vineyards on hillsDouro Valley viewpoint with vineyards on hills
The Douro Valley in Portugal
Amanda stomping grapes in the Douro ValleyAmanda stomping grapes in the Douro Valley
Grape stomping!!

I booked a tour to assist out with the wine harvest course of at a Douro Valley vineyard final fall, and I need to let you know all about it!


What is the Douro Valley?

First issues first: what and the place is the Douro Valley? The Douro Valley is positioned in northern Portugal, the place the Douro River has carved out a deep valley with steep rolling hills. On these steep hills, terraced vineyards make up one of many oldest demarcated wine areas in your complete world.

The Douro Valley is the place the world’s port wine comes from. It’s just like the Champagne area in France; underneath Protected Designation of Origin legal guidelines within the European Union, solely fortified wine made with grapes from the Douro wine area can formally be referred to as Port or Porto.

Port tasting in the Douro ValleyPort tasting in the Douro Valley
Port tasting within the Douro Valley

They’ve been making wine right here for an extended, very long time – roughly 2,000 years, to be precise. And many winemakers nonetheless do issues the normal method, from hand-picking all of the grapes to hand-stomping (er… foot-stomping?) them. Some of that is out of necessity (for instance, the steep winery terraces make it troublesome to make use of equipment to choose the small grapes), whereas a few of it’s as a result of it is simply thought to be one of the best ways to do issues.

Stomping grapes within the Douro Valley

Many winemakers within the Douro Valley nonetheless press grapes for purple wine the “Old World” method: with their naked toes!

This occurs through the harvest season (often mid-September by way of mid-October, although the precise dates change yr to yr). The freshly-plucked bunches of grapes are put into a big cement/stone trough (often known as a lagar), after which stompers/treaders go in, barefoot, to crush the grapes.

A lagar full of partially-crushed red grapesA lagar full of partially-crushed red grapes
A lagar filled with partially-crushed grapes

There’s science behind this: manually stomping the grapes is one of the best ways to verify the grape juice is expelled with out additionally crushing the grape seeds and stems (which launch extra bitter flavors). Human toes additionally add some warmth into the method, kickstarting fermentation whereas permitting for optimum contact between the skins and juice, which some say results in higher purple wines.

It’s actually extra of a time dedication, as treaders stroll in a line backwards and forwards by way of the lagar for hours on finish earlier than the method is full – which is why not each Douro Valley vineyard makes use of this technique.

Of the wineries that also make the most of grape stomping of their winemaking course of, a number of supply vacationers the prospect to become involved behind the scenes. So after all I needed to attempt it!


A Douro Valley harvest tour: My expertise

Amanda and Elliot grape picking in the Douro ValleyAmanda and Elliot grape picking in the Douro Valley
Our tour included choosing the grapes, too!

When Elliot and I have been planning our annual birthday-anniversary journey final yr, I steered we go to Portugal. I wished to go to the Azores islands, and Elliot requested we additionally add a while in Porto so he might drink port wine from the supply. During my planning analysis, I spotted our journey would coincide with the harvest season within the Douro Valley, so we determined so as to add on two nights there, too.

There are a number of wineries that provide hands-on harvest season excursions that embody grape stomping, however they don’t seem to be all simple to search out in my expertise.

A pair choices I discovered embody:

The Douro Valley vineyard during harvest seasonThe Douro Valley vineyard during harvest season
The Douro Valley throughout harvest season

You often cannot begin reserving these excursions till mid-summer, when the wineries can have a greater thought of when the harvest will happen. Most wineries harvest all their grapes for the yr inside a interval of 2-3 weeks, someday between September and October. So you clearly cannot e-book a tour outdoors of these weeks!

We ended up reserving this tour with Living Tours, which included a half-day of harvest actions. They additionally supplied a wider availability calendar, as I believe they work with multiple winery for these excursions.

Harvesting grapes

Since we rented a automotive in Porto for our time within the Douro Valley, we met the tour on the designated vineyard, which for us was Quinta da Avessada. (The firm additionally presents transfers from Pinhão.) We met there at 10:30 a.m., and have been ultimately launched to our information for the morning and given our first refreshing glass of Douro wine.

Arrival at Quinta da AvessadaArrival at Quinta da Avessada
Quinta da Avessada

Then all of us donned straw hats and headed into the winery for about 45 minutes of grape-cutting.

We got some shears, a small bucket, and some suggestions, after which have been let free into the vines. We have been really within the Douro throughout some actually unhealthy wildfires, so I used to be additional glad that the winery we went to wasn’t on a steep hill!

We lower grapes for lower than an hour, filling a number of large buckets as a bunch (and consuming a lot alongside the best way, too). It was scorching and sweaty work, although, and I believe all of us completed with a better appreciation for the individuals who do that for hours a day through the harvest.

Harvest tour in a Douro Valley vineyardHarvest tour in a Douro Valley vineyard
Off into the vines!
White grapes on a vineWhite grapes on a vine
Grapes prepared for reducing
Buckets of white grapesBuckets of white grapes
Some of the grapes we lower

We then went again to the vineyard for one more glass of wine and a brief break. And then the true spotlight started!

Stomping grapes

We have been taken into a big barn subsequent the place a lagar was already stuffed with partially crushed purple grapes. Some different excursions point out offering you with shorts to put on to tread the grapes, however everybody in my group simply hiked up their shorts or pants and climbed into the lagar.

Our information defined the normal method of treading grapes – hooking elbows in a line and strolling slowly by way of the grapes to the beat of music being performed. We tried it – for all of 30 seconds earlier than issues devolved into folks high-stepping and twirling round within the grape goo to the sound of stay accordion music being performed for us.

Stomping grapesStomping grapes
Attempting to tread appropriately
Amanda stomping grapesAmanda stomping grapes
Going rogue within the grape goo

Grape stomping in follow is… squishy. And messy! But it was additionally fairly enjoyable.

We have been solely within the lagar for perhaps 10 minutes earlier than our information was ushering us out to dry off our legs. I might have fortunately spent longer doing this, however I can undoubtedly examine “stomping grapes to make wine” off my bucket record.

(And to anybody feeling repulsed on the thought of naked toes within the grapes that make your wine… do not stress. This all occurs earlier than the fermentation course of, and that course of kills off something gross that may be floating round in there with all of the grape skins, leaves, stems, seeds, bugs, and many others.)

After stomping, we realized a bit concerning the historical past of the vineyard we have been at (over yet one more glass of wine, after all!), after which moved again into the principle constructing for a conventional lunch.

Douro Valley winery tourDouro Valley winery tour
Winery tour
Wine tasting in the Douro ValleyWine tasting in the Douro Valley
More wine, after all

The vineyard we visited hosts numerous tour teams, so the lunch felt like some other vineyard lunch I’d been to. But the general harvest tour was actually enjoyable!

The verdict

These harvest excursions can differ relying on which one you e-book and which vineyard you go to. But, on the whole, they’re a novel method to expertise winemaking within the Douro Valley, and I’m actually glad we did it!

It’s very simple so as to add a harvest tour to a bigger journey to the Douro Valley or Portugal, too, so I’d say go for it should you’re visiting on the proper time of yr.

Quinta da Avessada in PortugalQuinta da Avessada in Portugal
Quinta da Avessada views

Where to remain within the Douro Valley

While you CAN take a day journey to the Douro Valley (even for a tour like this), I do suggest staying for an evening or two if doable! For harvest season, most of the excursions occur within the neighborhood of Peso da Régua, which is a superb a part of the Douro Valley to base your self.

We stayed at Casa do Romezal, a family-run guesthouse with unbelievable winery views (and so they make their very own wine, too). We did not get to benefit from the outside areas as a lot as we had hoped due to the wildfires within the Douro on the time, however I might nonetheless extremely suggest this spot.

View from Casa do RomezalView from Casa do Romezal
View from Casa do Romezal

And Peso da Régua can also be a surprisingly great place for foodies! A pair locations I’d suggest for dinner embody Tasca da Quinta, O Maleiro, and Aneto & Table. You can attempt native meals (and wine, after all) and all of those spots.

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