Medellin was once simply in regards to the final place anybody would go.
For many years, it was often known as the bottom of Colombia’s most notorious cartel, the house of Pablo Escobar, and (within the early Nineteen Nineties) for actually having the world’s highest crime price. Yep, it was very a lot no bueno.
Then, Medellin improved… lots.
I first visited Medellin again in 2014 simply earlier than it really hit the highlight. I feel for a lot of vacationers it was a beautiful shock to search out out Medellin was safer, livelier, and extra habitable than they’d imagined. Quickly, many expats and digital nomads additionally started to acknowledge Medellin as an inexpensive and engaging place to reside.
Phrase unfold. Medellin turned a factor.
Now, as I revisit Medellin in 2022, it appears the pendulum has swung the opposite method.
Currently, Colombia journey boards and discussion groups debate whether or not Medellin is ‘overrated’. Some vacationers surprise what the fuss is all about. Some digital nomads are even turning their noses up at Medellin having develop into a ‘gringo city’, overtaken by foreigners like themselves.
So what occurred? And do you have to nonetheless go to Medellin?
Let me provide you with my 2 pesos.
Is Medellin price visiting?
From a vacationer’s perspective, I feel Medellin is certainly price visiting for not less than a number of days. I’d even say it’s probably the most worthwhile locations in Colombia. However… it’s helpful to have the proper expectations.
Medellin is generally a contemporary metropolis with many red-brick condo blocks in addition to many shanty cities on the slopes of its surrounding hills. There isn’t that a lot of a historic outdated metropolis if that’s what you’re hoping to search out.
Many of the sights and issues to do in Medellin are additionally arguably extra of curiosity to residents. It has some pretty parks, a botanical backyard, a enjoyable science museum, and plenty of renovated public squares — however that’s possibly not what you got here all the best way right here for. So far as cultural points of interest of key curiosity to vacationers, I feel Bogota has extra of them (for instance the Gold Museum and the Botero Museum).
That stated, Medellin is certainly the place to find out about its fashionable historical past and the drug cartels. It’s additionally fascinating to see how poorer areas have been utterly reinvigorated. Comuna 13 was once one of many metropolis’s most harmful areas; now it’s a buzzing vacationer vacation spot famed for its road artwork and optimistic vibes.
Medellin has nice nightlife and a whole lot of worldwide delicacies, particularly within the prosperous neighborhood of Poblado which is common with expats and vacationers.
Purely at face worth, I imagine Medellin could be a smidge disappointing if it’s been hyped as much as you numerous. Nevertheless, I nonetheless suppose Medellin is a tremendous metropolis — and I imagine the important thing to appreciating it’s to actually know its story.
When you perceive this story, Medellin will certainly click on for you in a giant method. Not less than, I can say it completely did for me.
Understanding Medellin
There are two sorts of people that have visited Medellin: those that have accomplished the Medellin Actual Metropolis strolling tour and those that haven’t.
I’ve accomplished really numerous strolling excursions world wide, however I nonetheless take into account this one among the many greatest I’ve ever accomplished.
If you wish to perceive Medellin’s previous and current from a deeply private perspective, then the Actual Metropolis strolling tour is a should. It’s run by locals and all the guides lived by means of Medellin’s ‘dangerous years’ not directly.
(By the best way, I don’t earn something from this advice. It’s simply my high journey tip for Medellin!)
Removed from the same old cookie-cutter tour, the tales advised by my information left me deeply affected. Born and raised in Medellin, as a baby he witnessed individuals getting gunned down with computerized rifles proper in entrance of his home. He additionally describes a horrific grenade assault at a metro station and a market bombing that killed two dozen individuals.
By listening to from somebody who really lived by means of all of it, you acquire a very vivid image of what Medellin was like only a few many years in the past. Nevertheless, this tour isn’t just in regards to the dangerous days, however about hope and progress.
Listening to in regards to the dangerous from the previous makes you respect what Medellin is at this time. And also you’ll actually begin seeing it with completely different eyes.
You’ll acknowledge how Medellin went by means of a complete transformation. Squares that have been as soon as the scene of brutal killings have been become vibrant public areas. Libraries and galleries have sprung up far and wide. A constructing that was as soon as a refuge for criminals is now, fittingly, the town’s Centre for Training.
On the left, a sculpture that when exploded in a bombing assault. The artist, Fernando Botero, insisted the town maintain it as-is, with a brand new sculpture positioned subsequent to it as a reminder of previous and current.
Whether or not you’re taking the Actual Metropolis tour or just spend sufficient time in Medellin, you’ll little doubt quickly hear of “Metro Tradition”. It’s one other piece of Medellin’s story.
The Metro system was constructed through the top of the Violence (it will get written with a capital V). It shortly turned the town’s major image of change. Take a better look and also you’ll see the metro system is in reality a supply of delight among the many Paisas, completely freed from any graffiti, chewing gum, or cigarette buds.
The metro traces its connecting cablecars have been an city planning masterstroke, serving to to tie the town collectively and combine the slums with the town correct, thus elevating alternatives for the poor. Within the outer barrios, you’ll be able to see posters subsequent to city renovation tasks with slogans corresponding to, “right here too the Metro Life lives”, exhibiting how the Metro has develop into a shorthand for Medellin’s revival.
When you see Medellin on this context, it turns into a LOT extra fascinating.
Different methods to get pleasure from Medellin
What I additionally like about Medellin is you can get to know the Colombian tradition, in addition to utilizing it as an excellent base for day journeys within the area.
Aside from studying the historical past, to get probably the most out of Medellin right here are some things I like to recommend:
Make a journey to Guatape
Okay, it is a bit touristy, however it’s actually enjoyable.
Guatape is a village famed for its vibrant homes with superbly sculpted depictions of village life adorning the decrease halves of each home. It’s a fairly place to spend a while.
It’s also residence to the rock of Peñol, a powerful inselberg with 650 steps resulting in the highest, from the place you’ll be able to watch a good looking lake-strewn panorama.
It’s pretty simple to get to however it takes a little bit of time: take the Medellin Metro to Terminal del Norte, from there it’s a 2-hour bus journey to Guatape costing about 11,000 pesos.
For a extra guided and full expertise you may also take a tour, corresponding to this Guatape day journey on GetYourGuide (which additionally features a boat journey) or this Guatape day journey on Viator. The excursions are quicker as they embody resort pickup and no public transit.
Go paragliding
The hills round Medellin are excellent launching areas for paragliding. Tandem flights require no particular abilities, are comparatively cheap, and provide spectacular views of the town.
It prices round $50 for a flight. You’ll be able to ebook this simply by means of Viator or by means of GetYourGuide.
Make a journey to Jerico or Jardin
These colourful cities within the coffee-growing area south of Medellin are very enjoyable to go to. You’ll see loads of espresso farmers and cowboys milling in regards to the streets and markets and among the many rolling inexperienced hills you’ll be able to go to waterfalls or take a espresso tour.
It takes about 4 hours to Jerico or 3 hours to Jardin, so you could want to keep in a single day to make it definitely worth the journey.
See a soccer/soccer match
Not being into soccer a lot myself, this was extra of an anthropological train than anything, however I beloved seeing how passionate the Colombians get about this sport. Go together with slightly group (or a tour) because the stands can get very mosh-pitty and loopy.
Go on an unique fruits tour
I did this tour and I beloved it because it launched me to quite a few lesser-known tropical fruits such because the soursop, guavasteen, candy granadilla, and the West Indian Locust fruit (a.ok.a. the smelly ft fruit).
You get to go to some native markets and check out about 20 completely different scrumptious issues (or much less scrumptious… see: smelly ft).
Take salsa classes
On some days you may get free classes at explicit hostels (as an example on the Wandering Paisa) for those who occur to be a funds traveler. There are additionally salsa classes provided at most of the salsa bars and faculties.
Dive into the nightlife
The nightlife in Medellin is certainly a whole lot of enjoyable, whether or not you’re the cocktail bar sort or wish to go clubbing (many of the music is latin). Your best wager is to go to Parque Lleras within the Poblado space, which is a small park surrounded by streets with bars and eating places, all of which have open terraces with individuals spilling out onto the streets.
Visiting vs. dwelling in Medellin
I feel a whole lot of the variations of opinion about Medellin stem from whether or not individuals keep for a number of days, or for for much longer.
Medellin has lots going for it as an inexpensive place to reside, with a light year-round local weather, a fairly good high quality of life, and plenty of issues to do. That’s why it’s been very fashionable with digital nomads and distant staff (I additionally suppose the relationship scene is a giant attraction for some nomad sorts).
Though Medellin stays a serious digital nomad hotspot, much like Mexico Metropolis, Chiang Mai, or Lisbon, its recognition appears to have peaked slightly bit. Costs rose and gentrification set in, which has led to some grumbling about it being “overrated”.
There’s additionally been some backlash to sleazy foreigners coming to Medellin to search out prostitutes and medicines and such. Some Fb teams for Medellin have needed to begin a “no jerks” coverage.
Some residents additionally don’t just like the existence of Pablo Escobar-themed excursions, wanting to place this disagreeable period behind them.
However for those who’re visiting as a vacationer for a number of days, you’ll most likely be 100% unaware of those controversies.
Whereas Medellin just isn’t a metropolis with any colonial or historic historical past and even many typical “vacationer websites”, it gives an excellent window into Colombian tradition and its more moderen historical past. In case you’re on a bigger journey by means of Colombia, I undoubtedly wouldn’t skip it.
Is Medellin nonetheless harmful?
Medellin is longer the area of Pablo Escobar, however it could actually nonetheless be slightly tough across the edges. Don’t put on costly jewellery, maintain your telephone in your pocket, and take official taxis at evening (or ride-hail apps) while you’re going out.
I’ve requested locals in regards to the security in Medellin on quite a lot of events. I as soon as requested a gaggle of locals who I’d befriended in the event that they’d ever been robbed or had something occur — I obtained fairly the collective eye-roll. One lifelong Paisa advised me all of the barrios (regular neighborhoods) are principally secure and that solely a number of the communas (hillside shanty cities) might be harmful lately.
I do suppose the scenario could be a bit completely different for vacationers, as they might be extra focused than born-and-raised locals.
The most secure neighborhood is unquestionably Poblado, which is the place most vacationer lodging is. This space is kind of prosperous and worldwide although, so it’s a bit decrease on native vibes. Laureles is one other nice space to remain. The metro system could be very safe and secure, so you should use it to get round with none issues.
Basically, Medellin just isn’t harmful, however being a giant metropolis in South America it’s nonetheless smart to take some fundamental security precautions.
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Posted OCT 18, 2022 (Up to date Oct 18, 2022)