Often, I discover myself reflecting on my love for the ocean. I don’t know the place it got here from. I didn’t develop up close to the ocean, nor am I a lot of a seaside bum. Laying round in a swimsuit, like, in entrance of individuals all day doing nothing? And how annoying is sand? Scoffs. No thanks.
Actually, if I’m being sincere, I’m extra of a seaside individual now than I was. Pretentious younger traveler me at all times needed to be doing issues and taking within the sights. Relaxing and vacation by no means belonged in the identical sentence. I must SEE and DO it ALL.
Having burnt myself out so many occasions since, your lady loves a lazy vacation now. Show me the resort completely happy hour!
But again to the ocean. With no concept the place this ardour got here from, I can say now that I’m actually completely happy at sea. To go to the Arctic is to fall in love. I am keen on it. I benefit from the rocking of the boat. The wild climate and waves. The feeling of transiting in a brand new approach. The briny air and the sensation of insignificance. Mother Natch is in cost at sea.
I’ve been touring to the polar worlds by ship for years and years, making a few of my favourite journey recollections alongside the way in which. In these distant corners of the earth, getting round by boat is just about the one possible strategy to go to the Arctic. My job onboard was at all times journey content material, pictures, writing, and storytelling. I sat someplace in between the expedition crew and passengers.
But deep down, I knew I needed to be a part of the crew. I needed to get my arms soiled and learn to work at sea. In 2023, I lastly discovered the braveness to pursue working as an expedition information on the Ocean Endeavour, an expedition ship alternating between the Arctic with Adventure Canada and the Antarctic with Intrepid, summer time to summer time.
I spent three months onboard with Adventure Canada final summer time, touring from Scotland to the Faroes to Iceland to Greenland and ending in Canada. It was the journey of a lifetime, and I really feel honored to be a part of their household. There’s such a close-knit vibe onboard. My primary job was as media, taking pictures and gathering content material for storytelling, however I additionally doubled as a part of the expedition crew. After a decade of working independently, being a part of a crew felt so good.
And arguably one of the best a part of all of it? Three months at sea means you see a ton of cool stuff. It allowed me to construct on my expertise, revisit locations I cherished, and see issues by contemporary eyes. If you go to the Arctic someday, hopefully, you’ll get to share a few of these adventures, too. Here are ten of the good issues I noticed whereas onboard with Adventure Canada – get pleasure from!
1. Polar bears consuming a beluga whale
I’ve managed to see some fairly wonderful issues in my life, particularly since I turned a full-time journey blogger in 2013. But indubitably, one of many coolest experiences of all occurred whereas visiting the Arctic within the Northwest Passage final September.
There is that this unbelievable place referred to as Coningham Bay, with a large, shallow bay with a slim inlet. Beluga whales wish to swim into the bay to roll round and scrape off their previous pores and skin. But they turn into trapped inside at low tide due to the shallow entrance. Dinner time for the polar bears.
Here, we noticed over a dozen polar bears, together with cubs feasting on lifeless whales. It was wild. Only in my morbid goals did I think about seeing polar bears with bloody, gorey faces. There have been beluga within the bay splashing round and even narwhal! It ranks on the prime of the good wildlife experiences ever.
2. Sailing from Iceland to Greenland with Margaret Attwood
One of the good experiences final summer time at sea was that Canadian icon and legend Margaret Attwood was onboard with us as a particular visitor on the Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings journey. If you go to the Arctic, arriving by ship is an actual journey.
A longtime pal of Adventure Canada, Margaret Attwood, joins in on a visit per yr. A passionate conservationist and chicken nerd alongside along with her late husband, it was ridiculously cool to be on board along with her on such a enjoyable journey. Very very similar to all people else besides with a crafty and darkish humorousness, it was inspirational to be round one of many best writers of our age. Hanging out along with her and listening to her tales, you type of simply shut up and hear as a result of they’re so riveting.
She even penned a brief story referred to as Stone Mattress whereas onboard years in the past. About revenge and homicide (after all) on the Northwest Passage touring by expedition ship, it’s now a part of the guide of the identical identify.
3. Finally seeing the Northern Lights
I’m so completely happy to report that I’ve lastly seen the Northern Lights in spite of everything these years. It was an enormous expertise for me and one which I nearly missed out on.
I’ve been to the Arctic a couple of occasions, and Aurora territory, and I’ve by no means seen them. I spent every week in Arctic Finland in winter—cloudy your entire time. Other occasions, I’ve been within the Arctic in summertime when it doesn’t get darkish—no lights. I’ve seen their equal loads in New Zealand, however down right here, it’s nowhere close to as vivid or dramatic—we’re not far sufficient south.
But this time, in September, as we made our approach south alongside the western coast of Greenland, the Northern Lights got here out in full pressure. I used to be getting over being sick and had gone to mattress early after I began to listen to knocking on my door. I ignored it for ages, however my resilient boat bestie, Krista, was not leaving til I received as much as see them. Thank god for good associates!
Throwing my gear over my pajamas, we made our strategy to the highest deck, and the aurora was popping off! It was insane! I watched it dance for ages, took a couple of pictures, and simply jumped round with everybody, celebrating such a cool expertise. If you go to the Arctic and wish to see the Northern Lights, Greenland is the place to be.
4. Hanging out with the Shetland ponies in Scotland
My very first journey with Adventure Canada was Scotland Slowly, which explores the northern Scottish Isles. Exploring Scotland by sea was unbelievable, and going by expedition ship meant we may absorb many locations which can be often onerous to get to.
As an enormous historical past nerd, I cherished this journey. In truth, many of the books I purchased for the entire season have been on this journey round Scotland.
But if I’m being sincere right here, my favourite half was being across the Shetland ponies. The Shetland Islands will not be simple to entry, practically 200 kilometers north of mainland Scotland, near Norway. We referred to as into the tiny island of Foula for the day, residence to some dozen people and a hell of much more ponies. With lovely chicken cliffs and unbelievable views, and tiny horses roaming round, it was an actual spotlight for me for the entire some.
5. Standing on sea ice in Baffin Bay
By this level, I’ve been to the Arctic and Antarctic many occasions and spent a good period of time transferring by sea ice, both by ship or on zodiac cruises. Punching by the ice, the crackles and booms towards the ship, trying in direction of the horizon for polar bears, sea ice exploration is certainly one of my favourite issues about polar journey. It makes you are feeling such as you’re exploring for those who go to the Arctic.
Baffin Bay sprawls throughout northern Canada to Greenland. Frozen all yr, channels and huge elements open up within the summertime. Ice situations undoubtedly dictate how we journey by ship. Ships are assigned ice class rankings, relying on the strengthening to undergo sea ice. The ice will be thick or skinny, super-condensed, or unfold out. There are heaps of things that go into understanding sea ice situations – many I’m nonetheless studying myself.
But one factor I’ve by no means accomplished earlier than is land on sea ice, i.e., get out and stroll on it. It must be previous, thick, and durable. This season, we discovered the proper sea ice to land on in Baffin Bay, nudging the zodiacs onto the ice earlier than hopping out and exploring for a bit. It was a very, actually cool expertise that not many people have accomplished earlier than. It was so particular.
6. Getting an actual schooling about Inuit life and historical past
I’ll be utterly sincere: I didn’t know heaps about Inuit life and tradition earlier than heading to the Arctic. I knew a good quantity in regards to the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls in Canada, together with the horrors of the residential faculties, largely from crime podcasts I take heed to.
But then, there’s solely a lot you’ll be able to examine till you expertise it your self. And there’s solely a lot you’ll be able to even start to grasp as an outsider.
Adventure Canada cares loads about indigenous life, particularly since they function round their lands. Each journey has many native Inuk guides on board as cultural educators. They even have the one Inuk Expedition Leader within the trade. Everything occurs in an actual, genuine approach; nothing is hidden or sugarcoated. We visited deserted communities the place Inuit residents have been compelled to maneuver, see graves, and be taught in regards to the tragic historical past, notably in Canada. It was actually eye-opening.
7. Getting up shut and private with puffins within the Faroe Islands
Just just like the ponies of Scotland, I used to be enraptured by one other lovely creature – the puffin. If you go to the Arctic, hopefully you’ll see them!
I had seen puffins earlier than on my first journey to Iceland one million years in the past, nevertheless it was earlier than I had a telephoto lens and so they weren’t notably up shut. This time round, I noticed them heaps, generally proper subsequent to you, and wow, are they one of many cutest birds of all time ever. I’ll die on this hill!
Much smaller than they give the impression of being, they fly with the weirdest gait, legs splayed large. We noticed them a couple of occasions round Iceland after which heaps within the Faroe Islands, the place they hang around on the cliffs subsequent to among the hottest walks.
8. Having my thoughts blown within the Torngat Mountains
At the sting of the Arctic Circle in Canada is likely one of the most unbelievable wilderness areas I had by no means heard of: the Torngat Mountains.
I hadn’t been onboard the Ocean Endeavour lengthy earlier than I heard that some of the universally beloved journeys is their Greenland and Wild Labrador journey, which spends time within the distant Torngats. Forever enamored by the very far north, land of bears and ice, Labrador hadn’t actually occurred to me as a spot I might love.
My final journey of the season went right here, and holy crap, guys, it was my favourite place of all. I’ll undoubtedly go into this intimately later, however the Torngats is perhaps my favourite mountain vary on this planet. A particular Inuit homeland, this place is extremely protected and solely open for a couple of weeks a yr. There are not any roads wherever close to right here. But due to Adventure Canada’s unbelievable relationship with Inuit, and by bringing locals onboard this journey as guides, we’re in a position to spend practically every week within the Torngat Mountains – with all of it to ourselves. And the bears. There are tons of bears right here.
9. Crazy sunsets at sea in East Greenland
By mid-July we have been absolutely immersed within the Arctic as we sailed from Iceland over to Greenland. We spent period of time exploring the distant japanese aspect of Greenland, the place only a few individuals reside. With plenty of sea ice and good climate, it was lovely cruising by essentially the most picturesque of Arctic landscapes.
But what made it much more lovely than regular with the loopy sunrises and sunsets we have been getting. Sadly, this wasn’t for cause. 2023 was Canada’s worst wildfire summer time ever. Nearly 20 million hectares of land went up in flame, burning for months at a time.
And the smoke drifted to Greenland. Though it wasn’t tremendous smokey or sturdy in southeastern Greenland, the haze contributed to lengthy, misty sunsets that have been out of this world—an attractive tragedy.
10. Wandering the magnificent autumn tundra
Autumn comes early for those who go to the Arctic. By September 1st, your entire countryside had turned pink and gold within the far north. The mountains had their peaks dusted with the primary snow, and there was a chunk to the air heralding the change of seasons. The midnight signal was gone, and night time returned, bringing dancing auroras amongst the celebrities.
I really like autumn a lot, and it was cool to expertise it in a wholly new panorama. There are not any timber this far north, so the tundra modifications colours as an alternative. It’s additionally when all of the berries come out, so it made hikes even higher, munching on them.
Would you wish to expertise a few of these issues for those who go to the Arctic? Or have you ever already? Share!
Many because of Adventure Canada for internet hosting me within the Arctic – like at all times, I’m holding it actual – all opinions are my very own, like you may anticipate much less from me!