Hiking the John Muir Trail is a life-changing expertise. Once you’ve adopted the crest of the Sierra from Yosemite to Mount Whitney (or visa-versa if you happen to’re climbing Northbound), you’ll without end be returning to these recollections of climbing throughout one of the vital scenic mountain ranges on Earth.
I hiked the JMT Southbound again in 2014 over 22 days and saved a day-by-day log of my journey. Below, I share my 3-week JMT itinerary, damaged up into sections by resupply factors, to focus on a few of my favourite viewpoints, campsites, swimming holes, and lunch spots.
In 2023, BFT contributor Mary of The Blonde Coyote added some extra suggestions and perception from her 2020 JMT Northbound thru-hike. We hope these first-hand accounts offer you a glimpse of what life on the JMT is like – pleased trails!
Important Reminder: As it goes in all the locations we share, please apply good path etiquette and keep in mind to Leave No Trace. This means packing out your whole rubbish (together with bathroom paper), being respectful to others on busy trails, and following the established guidelines.
Section 1: Yosemite National Park to Red’s Meadow
Day 1 – Yosemite Valley (Mile 0) to Little Yosemite Valley Backpackers Camp (Mile 4.8)
The John Muir Trail historically begins on the Happy Isles Trailhead in Yosemite Valley and rapidly good points 2,000 vertical ft over the primary 4 miles, passing a number of epic waterfalls and vistas. With a heavy bag and leaden legs, it is a robust climb regardless that the mileage is low.
Around 5 miles in, you attain the junction of Half Dome, a Yosemite icon. If you’re particularly match and impressive, you may attempt to safe a separate allow to summit Half Dome, an epic kick-off to a JMT journey. Hiking Half Dome will tack on a further 7.2 miles from Little Yosemite Valley and one other 2,700 ft of elevation achieve.
Day 2 – Little Yosemite Valley (Mile 4.8) to Lower Cathedral Lake (Mile 17.7)
After a light-mileage first day, Day 2 looks like the primary official day on the John Muir Trail. There’s an optionally available detour on this part: at Sunrise Lakes, you are able to do a 10-mile round-trip day hike as much as Clouds Rest, arguably the most effective vantage level in all of Yosemite. Mary camped at Sunrise Lakes and hiked Cloud’s Rest on the finish of her NOBO journey in 2020 and extremely recommends this detour.
If you’re skipping Clouds Rest, head onward to Cathedral Lakes on Day 2.
First, we checked out Upper Cathedral Lake which is correct on the path. It’s a stunning spot, however we couldn’t discover a appropriate campsite. So we saved going and took the 0.75 mile detour off the path at mile 17.1 to get to Lower Cathedral Lake. This ended up being the BEST choice, and we discovered an incredible campsite on a degree on the north aspect of the lake.
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While nonetheless populated, Lower Cathedral Lake was a bit of quieter and, in our opinion, superior to Upper Cathedral Lake. Right at our campsite there was a seashore for solar tanning and a rock in the course of the lake that wasn’t too far to swim to. Also, because the solar set, Cathedral Peak shaped a surprising reflection within the water, and we had the most effective viewpoint of all the lake.
Another tip – you probably have further time, stroll out to the northwest fringe of the lake the place you’ll discover a a wide-open view of Tenaya Lake.
Day 3 – Lower Cathedral Lake (Mile 17.7) to Lyell Canyon (Mile 31)
Waking as much as a stunning dawn, the morning reflection of Cathedral Peak was much more good than the sundown the night time earlier than, confirming Upper Cathedral Lake as one in every of my favourite spots throughout our first week on the JMT.
After packing up, we made our option to Tuolumne Meadows. There is a General Store and restaurant the place you should purchase meals and provides and likewise seize a meal if you’re so inclined. This can be the final place that there’s any cell service till Red’s Meadows in case you must telephone residence.
*Note that in 2023 the Tuolumne Meadows Campground will probably be closed and companies in 2023 could also be restricted. Double test on the Yosemite National Park web site so what to anticipate there.
While the surroundings is a bit of monotonous in comparison with the day gone by, it’s one of many flattest days on the path, so you may actually pack in some miles.
There are tons of tenting choices alongside the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River, many with stunning swimming holes. Since we might be tackling Donahue Pass the following day, we hiked so far as we may after which arrange store at a pleasant secluded spot on the river.
JMT Tip: Plan on climbing passes within the morning when the storm menace is low and your legs are contemporary.
Day 4 – Lyell Canyon (Mile 31) to Davis Lake (Mile 40.2)
Donahue Pass is the primary go on the John Muir Trail with an elevation of 11,060 ft on the high with views of the everlasting snowfield on Mt. Lyell and icy blue rivers beneath. If you time it proper, there have been some superb, however windy, campsites on the Upper Lyell Base Camp (mile 34.4).
After Donahue Pass, many individuals attempt to make it to Thousand Island Lake or Garnett Lake to camp for the night time. These spectacular lakes had been a few of Ansel Adam’s favorites, and for that cause, they’ll draw crowds. After 4 days of busy trails in Yosemite, we had been searching for some solitude, so at mile 40.2, we took a mile-long detour to Davis Lake. We discovered a phenomenal secluded lake, fabricated from a sequence of islands and had been handled to a colorfully pink sundown.
Camping Tip: If you resolve to move to Davis Lake, stick with the periphery when searching for a campsite. Despite being small, the maze of islands is straightforward to get misplaced in. In the morning it took us 45 minutes of rock hopping simply to get again to the trailhead. It was not one of the best ways to start out the day.
Day 5 – Davis Lake (Mile 40.2) to Lake Ediza Junction (Mile 48.4)
Day 5 was filled with attractive lakes and numerous locations to swim. We deliberate to cease at Thousand Island Lake for lunch, however once we arrived, it appeared that many different hikers had the identical concept. Alternatively, we took a swim/lunch break at Emerald Lake, which was simply 1.5 miles up the path. While not as spectacular as Thousand Island, we had the lake all to ourselves.
Shortly thereafter, we stumbled upon Ruby Lake, which had two campsites on the east aspect of the lake proper alongside the path. With the distinction of the blue water towards the purple mountains, Ruby Lake would have been a stunning place to swim or camp.
Garnet Lake was additionally stunning, however busy, with views of each Banner and Ritter Peaks. A seashore on the southeast aspect allowed for a straightforward method for swimmers and offered an ideal spot to solar afterward.
After you permit these lakes, you climb a sequence of switchbacks after which drop again right down to the Ediza Lake Junction. We discovered a sunny spot all to ourselves to arrange camp on the south tip of the path proper alongside Shadow Creek. Late within the afternoon, that is the final place on the path the place you will note any solar, and for my part, solar is a important element of any good camp.
When Mary hiked the JMT in 2020, she took the Minaret Lake Loop, leaving the JMT at Johnston Meadow and rejoining it at Ediza Lake Junction. This detour off the JMT doesn’t add important mileage and brings you proper to the bottom of the enduring spikey skyline of the Minarets, passing a number of attractive lakes with nice campsites alongside the way in which.
Day 6 – Lake Ediza Junction (Mile 48.4) to Read’s Meadow (Mile 59.9)
Shortly previous the Lake Ediza Junction, you come throughout Shadow Lake. We had been fortunate to hit it at simply the precise time within the morning when the mountains mirrored off the water.
My favourite spot of the day was Rosalie Lake. Right beneath the path, we discovered some huge flat rocks the place we stopped for snacks and pictures. This is the final good place that you’ll come throughout earlier than Red’s Meadow, so ensure that to soak all of it in.
The solely different appropriate spot for lunch is Trinity Lakes at mile 52.7, however don’t anticipate to swim right here as a result of it’s very marshy and buggy.
The remaining portion of the path resulting in Devil’s Postpile is all downhill and travels by means of a big forest stuffed with useless bushes. It’s relatively disagreeable in comparison with the surroundings over the previous 6 days, so we booked it to Devil’s Postpile National Monument.
Once you get to Devil’s Postpile, you’ll begin to see indicators of civilization, together with automobiles and roads. It will really feel unusual, however it’s price a fast cease to see the monument itself.
The solely place to camp within the space is on the established Reds Meadow Forest Service campground. It prices $22 an evening for a website, nonetheless, it’s tremendous handy to the “Resort” the place you’ll decide up your resupply field, and it’s also possible to purchase an ice-cold beverage. There are bear lockers within the campground, which is useful after the resupply since your bear field will possible be fairly full that night time. There’s additionally a concrete-enclosed scorching spring within the campground. It’s small and you could want to attend your flip however feels superb on drained muscle mass and sore ft.
The surroundings up till this level on the JMT was magnificent, however it was additionally probably the most crowded. As we continued south, the crowds thinned out and it started to really feel like true wilderness.
Section 2: Red’s Meadow to Muir Trail Ranch
Day 7 – Red’s Meadow (Mile 60) to Duck Pass Junction (Mile 70.5)
Not to start out on a low observe, however I need to mentally put together you for this present day. There’s no great way of placing it… this stretch between Reds Meadow and Duck Pass Junction was simply terrible. Everyone we met on the path agreed. First, your pack is about 10 kilos heavier than the day earlier than due to your resupply at Reds Meadow. But what’s worse is that after leaving Reds Meadow, you start the day by traversing by means of a burn space the place the bushes are useless and there’s completely no shade. I’d advocate getting an early begin so you may keep away from getting caught within the blazing solar (one more reason why tenting at Reds Meadow the night time earlier than is a good suggestion).
We initially talked about tenting at Deer Creek, however once we arrived, the stream was nothing greater than a trickle, and it was nonetheless early within the afternoon. Hence, we saved trucking.
There are only a few stretches alongside the JMT the place there isn’t a water and the 4.5-mile part between Deer Creek and the Duck Pass Junction is one in every of them, so ensure that to replenish earlier than persevering with uphill.
As we obtained nearer to our vacation spot, we had been handled to occasional views of the Silver Divide. It’s the one factor that saved me going with the enduring twinge I used to be feeling in between my shoulder blades.
When we lastly arrived on the creek at Duck Pass Junction, we discovered a pleasant place to arrange our tent just under the path on the west aspect of the creek.
Day 8 – Duck Pass Junction (Mile 70.5) to Fish Creek (Mile 77.5)
After the day gone by, we wanted a bit of pick-me-up. We had learn in our guidebook that Lake Virginia, 4 miles up the path, was heavenly. So we hit the path, first coming to Purple Lake. For those that have some stamina left in them the day earlier than, Purple Lake appeared to have some fairly good campsites. Mary camped at Purple Lake in 2020 and was handled to among the finest sunsets of her journey.
We arrived at Lake Virginia round lunchtime. We determined to observe a aspect path that veered off to the west aspect of the lake and located an ideal spot to arrange store for just a few hours.
We frolicked for a few hours, and round 2:30 we agreed it was time to maneuver on. As we descended the switchbacks down into Tully Hole, I started to suppose that we made an enormous mistake not tenting at Lake Virginia. Even although it was fairly, all the campsites we handed on Fish Creek had been shady and chilly. Eventually, we noticed some solar on the opposite aspect of the creek and located a protected place to cross. After mulling about for some time, we settled on a campsite. It was good, however it was no Lake Virginia.
Day 9 – Fish Creek (Mile 77.5) to Quail Meadows (Mile 88)
Today we tackled Silver Pass. The climb to the highest was fairly straightforward in comparison with among the different passes on the path. But take your time getting there, as there are a number of stunning lakes on the way in which.
My favourite lake of Day 9 was Chief Lake which is correct on the timberline beneath Silver Pass. The dramatic views and aquamarine water made it a fantastic place to cease for lunch earlier than making the final uphill push.
Between Chief Lake and Silver Pass, you can be utterly above the treeline. As you ascend the barren panorama, you’ll get sweeping views of the lakes beneath and the mountains the place you spent the final a number of days.
Traveling south from Silver Pass, you head down alongside the North Fork of Mono Creek. There are many shady campsites alongside the way in which. Our purpose was to make it near Quail Meadows since we wished to tackle the upcoming 2,000 foot climb to Bear Ridge very first thing the following morning when our legs had been contemporary.
Quail Meadows is positioned on the Lake Edison Junction which is the path you’ll take if you happen to had been planning to cease and resupply at Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). We skipped VVR as a result of it required a little bit of maneuvering to get there – a mixture of climbing, a ferry, and/or a jeep trip. Plus, we had been all fueled up with our provides from our go to to Reds Meadow just a few days prior.
Because of its shut proximity to VVR, Quail Meadows was a preferred camp spot for JMT hikers. To keep away from the crowds, we settled on a website simply north of Quail Meadows that was harking back to an previous cowboy camp and had quick access to some good haunt spots on the creek. To discover this big campsite, veer left off the path simply above the intersection of the North Fork with Mono Creek.
Day 10 – Quail Meadow (Mile 88) to Bear Creek (Mile 96.3)
Our day began with a 4 mile light climb up a sequence of switchbacks to the highest of Bear Ridge. If you’re drained while you get to the highest, cease for snacks, however don’t be tempted to take your lunch break right here. Some of the most effective swimming holes on the path are only a quick method forward.
After reaching the highest, you’ll drop right down to the Bear Creek Junction, the place the path begins to run parallel to Bear Creek for the following two miles.
While our lunch spot was beautiful, we discovered that the additional we obtained alongside Bear Creek, the higher the swimming alternatives. When we turned a nook round mile 95, we stopped useless in our tracks once we got here throughout an extended straightaway within the river with a cascading waterfall stuffed with calm, clear, and deep swimming holes.
About a mile later, we stumbled upon one other idyllic sequence of swimming pools. Could we go these ones up too? Neither of us took a lot convincing. We instantly threw our baggage down, the place we might later arrange camp. This spot within the river had some big flat boulders forming a sequence of waterfalls. Since the water was low, you may stroll proper out onto the granite and sit in the course of the waterfalls. It was heavenly. We had been grateful to say goodbye to our earlier guilt and spent the remainder of the afternoon basking within the glistening solar. This was 100% my favourite camp from the second part of the JMT.
Day 11 – Bear Creek (Mile 96.3) to Muir Trail Ranch (Mile 108)
Marie Lake is dotted with granite islands and provides excellent views of the encircling mountains. Sitting at 10,500 ft, there are a number of small, sandy, and uncovered campsites alongside the path. It was windy once we got here by means of, however I think about on a relaxed night time, this may be an incredible spot to camp.
Next up was Seldon Pass, which was solely 500 extra ft above Marie Lake. Make certain to benefit from the wide-open views of Marie Lake and Silver Pass as you climb.
Once you’re over Seldon, you first drop right down to Heart Lake after which Sallie Keyes Lakes. We stopped for lunch on the north finish of Sallie Keys. However, if it’s a heat day, I like to recommend heading to the southern fringe of the lake the place there seemed to be good swimming with quick access.
Our authentic plan was to cease at Sallie Keys and camp for the night time, however it was a windy day and since we made such good time, we set off for Muir Trail Ranch, our second resupply level.
The path between Sallie Keys and Muir Trail Ranch ends with an extended part of downhill switchbacks into a phenomenal river canyon. There isn’t any appropriate tenting alongside this stretch. At mile 108, you attain the northern cutoff to Muir Trail Ranch (MTR), the place you’ll undoubtedly cease, as it’s the final place straight on the JMT to resupply. Follow the indicators which lead you down a dry, dusty path to the camp.
Be ready to camp with a bunch of different thru-hikers in your night time at MTR. Sites are spaced shut collectively and there’s little privateness. There are additionally no bogs, so discovering a hidden place to go was a little bit of a problem.
Also, undoubtedly don’t miss taking a soak in Blaney Hot Springs throughout the river. From the MTR campsites, rigorously cross the river, after which observe the path downstream for about 5 minutes till you attain a sequence of pure scorching swimming pools. They are small and a bit murky, however the scorching water will do wonders in your sore muscle mass. This alone made staying at MTR price it.
At this level, we’re nearly on the midway level on the JMT. And I’ve to say that from right here on out, the surroundings simply will get higher, greater, and extra dramatic.
Section 3: Muir Trail Ranch to Lake Marjorie
Day 12 – Muir Trail Ranch (Mile 108) to McClure Meadow (Mile 119.3)
Two hours after getting our resupply at MTR, we reached the official border of Kings Canyon National Park. For the following 3.5 miles, the path adopted the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Despite being flat, these had been sun-exposed miles. So be ready and contemplate getting an earlier begin from Muir Trail Ranch.
We stopped for lunch on the Goddard Canyon Junction, the place there are just a few tent websites, and afterward instantly started the steep climb to Evolution Meadow.
As we neared the highest of the switchbacks, we may hear some turbulent waters working to our left. We veered off the path to catch a glimpse. Here Evolution Creek tumbled down the cliff, forming a sequence of deep holes because it cascaded into the San Joaquin River beneath.
As we made our method additional into Evolution Meadow, the terrain reworked from dry, uncovered slopes to flat inexperienced pastures with Evolution Creek slowly snaking by means of.
At some level, it’s important to cross Evolution Creek. In excessive water years, proceed strolling up the precise aspect of the creek till it’s protected to cross.
In the late afternoon, we lastly arrived at McClure Meadow and started trying to find a spot to arrange for the night time. About 5 minutes previous the ranger station, we noticed a small bench on the precise with an expansive view of the jap skyline, together with the peaks towering over Evolution Basin the place we might be headed the following day.
Day 13 – McClure Meadow (Mile 119) to Big Pete’s Meadow (Mile 135)
After an evening of rain, we hiked by means of Evolution Valley and started to ascend to Evolution Lake. The sky remained darkish, however there have been no indicators of thunder, so we saved trucking alongside. Right as we caught our first sighting of Evolution Lake, I felt a raindrop.
Literally inside three seconds, the Sierras unleashed their wrath and the sky was dumping buckets. We saved climbing, however now at a a lot quicker tempo. Soon, we reached the northern tip of Evolution Lake. We had been now above the treeline, utterly uncovered. And…it began to hail. Frozen sideways hail. Then thunder. At first, I felt adventurous, however then I simply obtained scared. We nonetheless had 5 miles and 1,000 ft of elevation to realize earlier than the highest of Muir Pass and now there was nowhere to cover.
Fortuitously, the distant thunder and lightning had been saved at bay, however the rain and wind sustained. We hiked and hiked and hiked. Not stopping for water. Not stopping for meals. Not even the toilet. We knew that in a break up second, the situations may change and we might be caught in a harmful state of affairs.
Finally, I may see Muir Hut on the high of the go. We had been not sure if we had been going to have the ability to get into Muir Hut, a shelter that was inbuilt 1930 by the Sierra Club. So we had been relieved once we reached the highest of the go and had been capable of search refuge inside.
An hour later, the rain seemed to be on its method out, and we even caught just a few glimpses of blue sky within the late afternoon on the hike down.
There weren’t numerous campsites on the way in which down from Muir Pass, so preserve that in thoughts when planning out your day. We lastly discovered a spot simply earlier than Big Pete’s Meadow, and in whole ended up climbing 16 miles that day.
In distinction to Kristen’s harrowing journey over Muir Pass, Mary on her NOBO hike loved a bluebird day in Evolution Basin in 2020. After summiting Muir Pass within the morning, they descended down by means of the basin, stopping to swim and fish in a number of of the lakes (enjoyable reality: Lakes Wanda and Helen are named after Charles Darwin’s daughters). After establishing camp close to Evolution Lake, they hiked as much as Darwin Bench, a brief aspect journey that takes you to an overlook of the Basin, on the head of Darwin Canyon. This was one in every of Mary’s favourite days of the entire JMT.
Day 14 – Big Pete Meadow (Mile 135) to Upper Palisade Lake (Mile 148)
The first half of the day was fairly uneventful. Little Pete and Grouse Meadows are each stunning locations to cease and take a break, however we pushed by means of as a result of we had an enormous climb up forward: the dreaded Golden Staircase.
The Golden Staircase is a steep 1,500-foot ascent up 50 or so odd switchbacks. It’s a marvel of trail-building engineering and was the final part of the JMT to be accomplished. But like most robust spots on the path, it wasn’t as dangerous as I anticipated. Just consider a unending Stairmaster on the fitness center, however with a far superior view.
We had deliberate on tenting at Lower Palisade Lake, however once we obtained there, there have been fairly just a few tents already arrange. And being above the tree line, there was actually no privateness so we determined to maintain going. We figured we’d discover a spot with some solitude at Upper Palisades Lake.
Well, because it seems, the gap between the Lower and Upper lake is additional than it appears on the map. And the path is kind of a bit larger than the lake itself, so we had been having bother discovering a tent website with quick access to water. Eventually, we crossed a small creek and determined to veer left off the path searching for a flat spot close to this water supply.
By the time we obtained our tent arrange, the solar was happening rapidly. We hustled to filter our water and cook dinner and eat dinner. In lower than 45 minutes, we had been tucked away in our sleeping baggage and prepared for shuteye.
Hiking Recommendation: The Golden Staircase is hard, however don’t be tempted to go away it until the following morning. If you go that route, it means you’ll have to climb the Golden Staircase and instantly observe it with Mather Pass, for a complete of three,500 ft in someday. Mather Pass can be one of many hardest passes on the path for my part, so that you’ll desire a pair of contemporary legs while you sort out it.
Day 15 – Upper Palisade Lake (Mile 158.5) to Crossing Below Lake Marjorie (Mile 158.8)
As quickly as we began climbing on Day 15, we had been going uphill on our option to the highest of Mather Pass. Now I used to be pleased that we continued on to Upper Palisade Lake the night time earlier than.
The ascent to Mather Pass is type of a beast. Most of the passes on the path are well-graded switchbacks. They may be lengthy, however there are few with huge rock steps like Mather. That stated, it nonetheless ended up being one in every of my favourite passes. The view as you climb is simply spectacular. The barren panorama is speckled with sapphire-colored lakes and surrounded by six peaks that exceed 14,000 ft.
Once you get to the highest, ensure that to take a while and loosen up. The views to the south of Mather are equally superior. On our descent, wanting again at Mather Pass, it was onerous to consider we got here from all the way in which up there. What took us 2 hours to climb solely took half-hour to hike down.
As you get farther away from Mather Pass, the mountains remodel from light-colored granite to a colourful, purple metamorphic rock. About two miles previous Mather Pass, you’ll run into the South Fork of the Kings River, which you then observe for an additional 4 miles. Anywhere alongside right here is a good place to cease for lunch and a swim.
Once you full the primary South Forks Crossing, it’s again uphill once more on a dry dusty slope. Up down up down. That’s the secret on the JMT. But to not fret, this uphill part is brief, and when you attain the highest, you’ve got your selection of lakes to camp on.
Since we had been fairly exhausted by this level, we stopped at an unnamed lake on the precise simply previous the Bench Lake Ranger Station. We traveled a bit off of the path on the north aspect of the lake and located an ideal spot for our tent.
Then because the solar began to go down, we headed north of the lake to get a good higher sundown view. What was actually cool is we may see all the way in which again to Mather Pass the place we got here from. It makes you’re feeling fairly proud while you notice how far you walked that day.
This secluded campsite ended up being one other of my favorites on the JMT.
Day 16 – Pinchot Pass (Mile 161) to Woods Creek Junction (Mile 168.4)
Our day began with a right away climb to the highest of Pinchot Pass. The 1,000-foot ascent was one of many simpler passes on the path, consisting of some gentle switchbacks and very nice views of Lake Marjorie beneath. The geology additionally grew to become noticeably completely different as we ascended, with vivid purple hues changing into extra dominant within the rock faces.
The view from the highest of Pinchot Pass revealed an uncovered and barren panorama speckled with a number of shallow lakes. From right here, the remainder of the day was all downhill. We can be dropping about 3,500 ft in elevation between right here and the day’s vacation spot.
There had been some interesting campsites at Twin Lakes and this unnamed lake on the west aspect of the path. These had been the final engaging spots to camp that we observed between right here and the Woods Creek Junction.
Soon after Twin Lakes, we handed the Sawmill Pass Junction and met up with Woods Creek. For the remainder of the afternoon, the path hugged the creek with little shade. When we had been a couple of mile from the Woods Creek Junction the place we might be tenting that night time, we noticed an superior swimming gap down beneath the path. While we had been desperate to get to camp, we had been scorching and dusty and agreed a bit of dip would carry our spirits.
A fast half-hour after our swim, we reached the Woods Creek Junction. Here the path turns left, crossing Woods Creek on this previous rickety suspension bridge. Once we crossed the bridge, we discovered not less than a dozen campsites and arrange camp for the night time.
Day 17 – Woods Creek Junction (Mile 168.4) to Middle Rae Lake (Mile 175)
I used to be wanting ahead to tenting at Rae Lake and we had an excellent quick (6.5 mile) day, so we determined to bust it out as rapidly as doable so we may get to camp and hang around all afternoon.
Even although we had been in a rush, we determined to take a fast break at Dollar Lake. The tall spherical mountain within the background is appropriately referred to as Fin Dome. As we left Dollar Lake, we entered this stunning meadow with clearer views of Fin Dome.
We additionally contemplated stopping at Arrowhead Lake, however we had been so near Rae Lakes that we saved on trucking. We lastly arrived at Middle Rae Lake. The path hugged the sting, and we started to scout for a campsite.
There are a ton of websites unfold out throughout the east fringe of Middle Rae Lake, together with a bunch of websites close to the Ranger station with a bear locker. While we usually went for the off-the-beaten-path websites, this time we selected a website that was a bit of nearer to different teams. We simply couldn’t resist this view.
By 1:30pm, we had already eaten lunch and gotten our tent arrange. Record pace, and we couldn’t have been happier. We headed right down to the seashore in entrance of camp the place there was a sandy entrance to the lake. We dove in and had the remainder of the day to swim (Rae Lake surprisingly wasn’t as chilly as among the different lakes on JMT) and sunbathe. As the solar went down, we cooked dinner and loved the night gentle over Glen Pass and the Painted Lady the place we might be headed the following day.
If you’ve got some further vitality in your legs, contemplate taking a aspect hike as much as the Sixty Lakes basin. You can both arrange camp at Rae Lakes and hike with only a gentle day pack or if the Rae Lakes are too crowded, take your backpack; you’ll possible have all the Sixty Lake basins to your self. As you ascend the two.3-mile lengthy path, the views again over the Rae Lakes and the Painted Lady are astounding. This was one in every of Mary’s favourite detours off the JMT.
Day 18 – Middle Rae Lake (Mile 175) to Flower Lake
Thanks to the spectacular skyline at dawn, we had a lazy morning and obtained a late begin out of camp. We lastly hit the street and made our method by Upper Rae Lake and the Painted Lady.
Then we began to climb up Glen Pass. I feel the views as you climb Glen Pass are among the greatest on the path, though it’s a difficult go. The colours of the lakes beneath the Pass had been mesmerizing.
Shortly after the go, we got here to the junction that led to Kearsarge Pass. This was the second we had been dreading for days as a result of we needed to get off the JMT to go decide up our final resupply at Onion Valley. This was a 14-mile detour…and we had been NOT pleased about it. We had been additionally not stoked to be heading towards our second go of the day.
Frustrated, we hung a left up in the direction of Kearsarge Pass and as soon as once more began to climb. As quickly as we obtained these views of Bullfrog Lake beneath the path, we determined that possibly it wasn’t so dangerous in spite of everything.
Next, we handed Kearsarge Lakes. We heard there have been some good spots to camp down there, though there had been reviews of bear exercise within the space.
After making it to the highest, we had been on the house stretch. Only 3.5 miles to our resupply field, which had been left for us by TK Company in a bear field on the trailhead*.
Mary additionally resupplied at Onion Valley and beloved the hike over the go. She camped on the far finish of Kearsage Lakes, one in every of her favourite campsites of the journey.
*Important Note: Food caches are not allowed to be left within the bear containers on the trailhead, however there are a number of choices for resupplying at Onion Valley. For data, see our weblog put up How To Resupply on the John Muir Trail.
Section 4: Kearsarge Pass to Mt. Whitney
Day 19 – Flower Lake to Upper Vidette Meadow (Mile 182.4)
When we began out on Day 19, it seemed prefer it was going to be one other stunning day within the Sierras, however the climate rapidly turned as we made our option to the highest of Kearsarge Pass. Something that we realized is that the climate can flip immediately up there. While we had been very fortunate all through our journey, it’s important that you’ve quick access to no matter clothes you must be comfy. For me, that was my raincoat and typically rain pants.
We reconnected with the John Muir Trail at mile 179.4, and for the remainder of the afternoon we skilled on-and-off rain as we descended down into Vidette Meadow.
During lunch, we obtained caught in a downpour and shortly after we determined to cease and arrange store. We had been feeling moist and drained and with Forester Pass simply forward, we didn’t need to threat ascending within the storm. So we discovered a pleasant riverside spot for our tent in Upper Vidette Meadow and hid out for a few hours whereas the rain handed.
Note: This is a standard predicament on the JMT: both hike within the rain or arrange camp early. On just a few events, Mary hid out in her tent for just a few hours in the course of the peak of a day rainstorm, after which as soon as it cleared, she packed up and hiked just a few extra miles earlier than dusk. Which tactic you utilize will depend upon the climate, the terrain (you’ll need to keep away from gaining elevation throughout storms), and your total potential to remain heat, dry, and constructive in a downpour.
Day 20 – Upper Vidette Meadow (Mile 182.4) to Wright Creek (Mile 197.9)
I had combined emotions waking up on Day 20. That day we might be tackling Forester Pass. The greatest and baddest go of all of them…or not less than that was the rumor on the path. I used to be a bit of bit nervous, however waking as much as these blue skies I had a sense it was going to be a great day.
The high of Forester Pass sits at 13,110 ft and marks the official border between Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park. Quickly after leaving Upper Vidette Meadow, we emerged above the tree line and slowly made our method up the talus path. We had been stunned to search out that sure, Forester Pass was lengthy. But it actually wasn’t any more durable than any of the opposite passes we had encountered.
We frolicked on the highest and soaked all of it in earlier than happening the opposite aspect into Sequoia National Park. Once we descended, the path zig-zagged down the barren terrain with expansive views of the Kaweah subrange off within the distance.
We remained above the treeline for a number of miles south of Forester Pass. Just earlier than the junction with the Lake South America path (Mary recommends this 6.2-mile spherical journey detour to the headwaters of the mighty Kern River!), we determined to interrupt for lunch. Shortly after lunch, we discovered our first signal indicating the gap to Mt. Whitney. It began to appear very surreal that we solely had 2 days left on our journey.
We didn’t have an actual plan about the place we wished to camp that night time, so we simply saved trucking alongside. Next, we hit Bighorn Plateau, a flat sandy panorama at 11,430 ft. I might have beloved to camp on the small pond that’s up there, however the clouds seemed a bit of unpredictable, and we agreed that staying up there wasn’t the most effective concept.
Bighorn Plateau can be the place you catch your first glimpse of Mt. Whitney. It was onerous to consider we’d quickly be standing on high of it.
By the time we determined to cease for the day at Wright Creek, we’d hiked about 15.5 miles. It’s superb how far we had come since day 1 when it comes to our skills. I keep in mind struggling to make 8-10 miles a day throughout our first week in Yosemite. As you go, your muscle mass, endurance, and confidence grows, and I felt fairly excited in regards to the transformation I used to be experiencing.
Day 21 – Wright Creek (Mile 197.9) to Guitar Lake (Mile 206)
After the lengthy day prior, we had been excited that we solely needed to cowl 8 miles on Day 21. This was additionally going to be our final night time on the path, so we actually wished to have a while to loosen up at camp and luxuriate in it. So we obtained an early begin and loved one other view of the Kaweahs, which appeared a lot additional away coming down from Forester Pass.
We arrived at Crabtree Junction round lunch. There is a ranger station there throughout the river, and we thought it might be a good suggestion to cease in and inquire in regards to the climate forecast for that night time and subsequent day. We had been happy to listen to that there was nothing however solar headed our method and that gave us some confidence for Whitney.
Soon we handed Timberline Lake and this meadow can be the final greenery we encountered till we got here down from Whitney the following day.
We arrived at Guitar Lake within the mid-afternoon and located all the campsites had been already within the shade. We wished the solar! According to every thing I had learn, Guitar Lake was the final supply of water earlier than Mt. Whitney, however the Ranger at Crabtree instructed me in any other case. He stated there have been just a few ponds simply up the hill from Guitar Lake the place we may additionally camp, so we determined to maintain going searching for these rays.
We discovered just about probably the most epic campsite on the JMT. There was one different group of two camped throughout the small pond, however there was loads of room for 2 events there.
We had a number of hours of scorching afternoon solar earlier than it began to set. We had been so pleased that we continued on previous Guitar Lake. Plus, we obtained to spend our final night time watching an incredible sundown. While the night sky was fairly all through our complete journey, there weren’t many nights the place we had an ideal view of the solar setting over the horizon. We couldn’t have been extra grateful to finish our final full day on the path this fashion.
That night time we went to mattress early with the jitters, and I barely slept in any respect. In lower than 12 hours we’d be standing on high of the tallest mountain within the decrease 48 and shortly after that, we’d be accomplished with the JMT. It was a really unusual feeling.
Day 22 – Guitar Lake (Mile 206) to Mt. Whitney (Mile 211)
We wished to look at the dawn from the highest of Mt. Whitney. We had simply over 3,000 ft to climb in about 4.5 miles, and we weren’t precisely certain how lengthy that will take us. We additionally weren’t certain if we might be affected by the altitude. The ranger instructed us that 2:00 or 2:30am can be a great time to get up, and dawn can be about 6:30. To play it protected, we set our alarm for two:00 and packed up in a rush. And off we went at nighttime, led solely by our headlamps.
Hiking up these switchbacks at nighttime was invigorating. We couldn’t inform how far we’d gone or how steep the cliffside was. The pleasure and the brisk air saved us pushing forward, whereas we rigorously saved our eye on the time.
When we obtained to the Trail Crest, the aspect path that results in the summit, I feel it was about 5:30am. We nonetheless had 2 miles and 1,000 ft to climb. We began to get nervous that we weren’t going to make it, so we determined to drop our packs at that junction since we might be passing by it once more on the way in which down. I rapidly grabbed my small daypack, some water, and an additional layer. Now working 30 kilos lighter, we had been capable of decide up our tempo as we raced the solar to the highest.
Note: Dropping packs at Trail Crest is widespread apply however needless to say the marmots are eager on digging by means of packs for snacks! Make certain you place all snacks and scented gadgets in your bear canister and tightly shut all zippers and buckles in your pack. There is a threat {that a} decided marmot will chew a gap by means of your pack!
Dropping our packs ended up being a superb choice. We arrived simply earlier than 6:30, simply in time to witness the velvety blue sky gentle up because the solar rose within the east over Death Valley. It was FREEZING chilly up there, however the dawn was every thing we wished it to be. I even felt a bit of emotional up there. All that planning and all that climbing to get there. We did it. We had been proud, excited, and unhappy. Lots of combined feelings.
After the solar got here up, we had been so chilly that we couldn’t actually keep up there for much longer. We tried to heat up within the hut however ultimately determined to signal the register and head again down.
Mary additionally elected to get up at 2 am to hike up Mount Whitney for dawn. But since she was climbing Northbound, she left her tent arrange at Crabtree Meadows and hiked Whitney out and again with a lightweight pack. After climbing at nighttime and summiting at daybreak, she detoured to Hitchcock Lakes for a victory swim on the way in which down. Hitchcock Lakes, positioned simply past Guitar Lake however barely off path, can be one other wonderful alternate tenting choice for a SOBO’ers final night time on path.
Overall, the hike down from Mt. Whitney to Whitney Portal was really fairly troublesome. You lose about 5,500 ft over 8 miles and it’s fairly robust on the knees. Make certain you’ve got sufficient water and snacks to gasoline you until the top. There are a number of spots to filter water on the way in which down. At the trailhead, you’ll discover the Whitney Portal Store, which sells snacks, souvenirs, and legendarily big victory pancakes.
In the top, I hiked about 240 miles over 22 days, and Mary hiked over 300 miles in 27 days, together with a number of aspect journeys off the JMT. It was one of the vital transformative journeys of my life. We hope this 3 week JMT itinerary conjures up you to plan your individual thru-hike of this iconic path!
Any questions on this 3-week John Muir Trail itinerary? Leave a remark beneath!
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