When I first stepped foot on Rakiura/Stewart Island years in the past, I knew I might like it there. I didn’t understand how a lot of a mark it might have on me.
New Zealand’s third island is named a haven for wildlife lovers. Unlike the remainder of New Zealand, stoats, goats, mice, or pigs had been by no means launched to Stewart Island, which allowed the uncommon chook life to hold on whereas it was decimated somewhere else. That being stated, it’s nonetheless declining, because of issues like feral cats (the worst).
However, Rakiura/Stewart Island nonetheless ranks excessive as the most effective locations in New Zealand to rise up shut and private with the wildlife. It’s additionally the most effective locations to have the prospect to see kiwi within the wild. Home to solely a pair hundred individuals, Rakiura very a lot appears like a unique period, even perhaps a glimpse of what New Zealand used to seem like or might even seem like once more.
As somebody who feels inherently linked to the land, Rakiura spoke to my soul the primary time I used to be right here.
And then it left an indelible mark on me after I stumbled throughout lots of of stranded pilot whales on a distant seaside tramping. Days from assist and fully off the grid, this traumatic expertise modified my life. At the time, I believed I might by no means return to Stewart Island. But in the long run, I made peace with it.
Part of Southland, Stewart Island is completely magical no two methods about it. It’s far too particular to disregard.
I spend no less than every week right here every year, and final summer season was no exception. I flew over and again from Invercargill for the primary time as an alternative of cruising throughout, which supplied a unique expertise. Here are a few of my favourite snaps from my Stewart Island journey – get pleasure from!
Visit Ulva Island and get your chook nerd on
One of the highlights of any go to to Rakiura/Stewart Island is embracing all the birdlife. And the most effective locations on Stewart Island is slightly island a brief boat trip away from the principle city, Oban, within the Paterson Inlet. Most of our predator-free offshore islands which might be chook sanctuaries are closed to the general public and require a allow to entry. Ulva Island is among the few exceptions.
There are numerous methods to expertise Ulva Island/Te Wharawhara, however I at all times discover numerous worth in guided wildlife journeys – and Ulva’s Guided Walks isn’t any exception. Started by native Ulva in 2000, it’s an unbelievable expertise. Following alongside behind Ulva like her shadow, her vitality and keenness had been infectious; I discovered lots from the expertise (and I already know lots about birds).
Pest-free since 1997, Ulva Island provides a glimpse of what New Zealand’s unbelievable nature and birdlife might seem like with out predators. Amongst pristine rainforests and gorgeous seashores, you’ll discover lots of our rarest birds, resembling kiwi, tīeke/saddleback, and mohua/yellowhead.
Fly out to Mason Bay and go tramping
In the previous, with Stewart Island journey, I’ve at all times taken the ferry or a ship throughout the well-known Foveaux Strait from Bluff (and one time a helicopter, however that’s a narrative for one more time). Only an hour, it’s a simple method to entry the island.
Stewart Island Flights operates small locations from Invercargill to Stewart Island just a few instances per day, and it’s an epic method to hop throughout rapidly with some nice views. But a little-known secret is that they’ll additionally land their small planes on the lengthy sandy seashores round Stewart Island. Remote and wild, these seashores usually sit on the well-known North West Circuit Track. By flying in, you will get provides dropped off. You can begin and end tramping wherever you need, shortening an extended monitor.
If you’re eager to see a distant a part of Stewart Island, right here’s my greatest tip. Catch a flight to Mason Bay and keep on the Mason Bay backcountry DOC hut for an evening or two. Drop your pack and discover throughout the realm – it’s epic! I at all times see kiwi right here too. Then stroll out to Freshwater Landing and catch the water taxi again to city with Rakiura Charters. You’ll get one of the best of all the pieces in a brief time frame.
Get out on the water and search for seabirds
While staying on Stewart Island, it’s an absolute should to get out on the water and discover the island. If you could have a ship, your greatest wager is hopping on one of many many guided boat excursions. Stewart Island is among the few locations on the earth the place you’ll be able to simply see a number of the most opulent seabirds, like albatross.
Ulva’s Guided Walks and Rakiura Charters run a land and sea chook full-day tour. This will get you out onto the water and likewise a guided journey round Ulva Island for the day. Both are must-dos!
Eat at Fin and Feather
Stewart Island journey requires some planning upfront. It is small, and also you’re restricted when it comes to lodging and eateries. I used to be so stoked to see a brand new place pop up in time for my go to final summer season – Fin and Feather Eatery – a connoisseur meals truck proper in the course of city. Their menu modifications on a regular basis, and their hours differ lots, however no matter they’ve is incredible.
I ate there three completely different instances. And would have gone again for extra.
Look for kiwi after darkish
If you end up on Stewart Island after darkish, it’s an absolute should to search for kiwi. There’s at all times an opportunity you’ll be able to stumble throughout kiwi wherever on the island. But when you aren’t an enormous chook nerd and are unfamiliar with their calls and searching for them, then your greatest wager is to hop on a kiwi recognizing tour.
I spent a night with locals Beaks and Feathers as we wandered round personal land searching for kiwi. We noticed 10, together with infants. When you’re chook looking at evening, you’ll want to use a crimson mild so that you just don’t hassle or shock the kiwi, and it means that you can see higher in low mild, which is why I don’t have pictures. It’s an effective way simply to take a seat again and revel in a incredible expertise.
The Rakiura tokoeka/Stweart Island kiwi is a subspecies of the southern brown kiwi, and they’re uncommon in a number of methods. A bit of extra frequent than the remainder of our kiwi, it’s estimated that round 20,000 of them are nonetheless on Rakiura. They’re additionally well-known for being energetic throughout the daytime, and they’re huge. The largest of the kiwi, with huge women nearly reaching to your knees. They additionally aren’t solitary, they usually dwell in household teams.
Stay at Argyle Apartments
Finding a spot to remain on Stewart Island has lengthy been difficult – you’ll want to e book locations effectively upfront as a result of there’s restricted lodging. This time round, I bought to remain in a model new construct – the Argyle Apartments, proper on the town. Flash, cozy, and shut by, the views out over Half Moon Bay and the encircling bush had been simply magical. And that they had houseplants. 10/10.
Check out the Rakiura Museum/Te Puka o Te Waka
I really like small-town museums, and the Rakiura Museum doesn’t disappoint. Housing an intensive assortment showcasing the early historical past right here, from muttonbirding to Māori and whaling settlements, Rakiura was very a lot an interesting wild west. The tales are wild, and I usually think about what life would have been like again then.
An avid reader and author, I at all times decide up just a few books from museum present outlets that share extra in-depth tales concerning the place. Often the books there are onerous to search out, small print run or self-published, making them much more distinctive.
Have you been to Rakiura/Stewart Island earlier than? Have any Stewart Island journey suggestions? Share!
Many because of Great South for internet hosting me on Stewart Island; like at all times, I’m conserving it actual – like you can anticipate much less from me!