Town-Hopping In The Coffee Triangle — A Travel Guide • Indie Traveller

There’s a spot in Colombia the place I felt actually within the zone. And it occurred to be the Zona Cafetera.

This land of fertile valleys sprinkled with small pueblos is the place most of Colombia’s espresso originates. It’s additionally one of the enjoyable components of Colombia to discover.

I used to be shifting from one espresso city to a different by the use of a Chiva, a colourful sort of modified truck that’s used as a neighborhood bus. It moved at a nail’s tempo and acquired caught within the mud just a few occasions, however I didn’t thoughts the syrupy-slow journey, being handled to such fantastic scenes of native life and views of wonderful landscapes.

We handed rolling hills quilted with smallholder espresso and banana plantations. Butterflies and hummingbirds darted from flower to flower. In villages, mustachioed ranchers and occasional farmers sporting striped ponchos and white hats went about their day by day enterprise.

All this gave me a pleasant sense of place. It’s a sense that endured throughout my two weeks of hopping by means of the Coffee Zone (also referred to as the Coffee Triangle or Eje Cafetero in Spanish).

Whether you’d like so as to add a espresso city or two to your Colombia itinerary, otherwise you want to observe my actual route as proven within the map, let me share with you all the small print.

Where is the Zona Cafetera?

Colombia’s fertile coffee-growing area is discovered roughly inside a triangle between the cities of Medellin, Cali, and Bogota. This total space is acknowledged by UNESCO as an distinctive instance of a sustainable and productive cultural panorama.

Much of this area is mountainous with the espresso typically cultivated in small plots on steep slopes. Being typically at larger elevations, the climate is pleasantly milder than on the searingly scorching and sweaty northern coast of Colombia.

Besides the beautiful landscapes, you possibly can take pleasure in villages and cities with colourful conventional structure, lots of them being among the many acknowledged heritage cities of Colombia.

Don’t have a lot time? Consider simply visiting the cities of Jardín and Salento (or close by Filandia). They’re best to achieve and offer you style of the Coffee Triangle. The small cities of Jericó, Salamina, or Pijao are very attention-grabbing should you take pleasure in quiet locations and going off the crushed path.

Jericó

This was my first cease within the Zona Cafetera and fairly probably my favourite.

Easily reached from Medellin, it’s however off the standard journey path. If you’d take pleasure in simply spending time in an genuine espresso city, and don’t thoughts the dearth of any easy-to-book excursions or off-the-rack day journeys, then I can’t advocate Jerico extra extremely.

Part of the enjoyable of Jericó is solely to remain on the principle sq. with a beer or a meal and watch native life unfold. Coffee farmers and ranchers sporting their typical hats may be typically seen assembly on the small important sq. for buying and selling their items or to purchase provides. Jerico simply has a fantastic vibe and could be very a lot unspoiled.

In August, Jericó has a giant competition the place lots of of colourful kites are flown over the valley. I used to be sadly there a bit too early, however nonetheless noticed many individuals already practising their kites from the viewing level overlooking the city.

What to do in Jericó

Hike round city, people-watch in the principle sq., go to the viewing level and see the small botanical backyard. More recommendations right here and on this weblog right here. Although there should not so many ready-made actions, you possibly can go on espresso excursions within the surrounding space. The Mother Laura Coffee Tour of Jerico will get rave critiques.

Where to remain in Jericó

Backpackers will love Parcerito’s Hostel, which could be very social because it’s constructed round a central courtyard, although the rooms are very primary. Aside from Parcerito’s I additionally stayed within the boutique lodge El Despertar which has a stunning viewing deck with a scorching tub and pleasant family-run administration. Although I didn’t keep there I additionally draw your consideration to this Riverside Ecoliving Space which will likely be good for digital nomads.

Where to eat

Restaurante La Gruta gives an incredible set meal at lunch that’s each scrumptious and nice worth. Cafe Don Rafa on the principle sq. for specialty espresso and treats.

Chiva to Jardín

From Jericó to Jardín it’s solely 20 miles (32 km) because the crow flies. But your solely direct transportation choice is a chiva (a truck transformed right into a bus) that does the journey in about… six hours.

You might say that it is a syrupy sluggish and extremely inefficient solution to hop to the subsequent city — and also you’d be proper.

But have a look at this one other manner and it’s really the most affordable tour of the espresso area landscapes you will get. For simply a few bucks, you get to spend a number of hours driving slowly by means of backroads within the Zona Cafetera and also you’ll be handled to some insanely beautiful views particularly in direction of the tip of the journey.

My chiva acquired caught within the mud… twice. We had to assist a banana truck that had tipped over the aspect of the filth street. We acquired right into a “who blinks first” stand-off with one other chiva on a street that match just one.

It didn’t matter.

This journey was probably essentially the most enjoyable day I’ve had on this itinerary. It alone was value going to Jericó for.

You can discover the chiva departure level beside the principle sq. in Jericó, reverse of Restaurante La Gruta. It leaves solely a couple of times a day, so inquire regionally for the precise timetable.

Jardín

Literally that means “garden” in Spanish, Jardín is definitely a reasonably place, with colonial facades and inexperienced mountains forming fantastic backdrops on all sides.

Jardín has quite a bit to do in and round it (rather more so than low-key Jerico), which makes it a simple place so as to add into your itinerary. It may serve to properly break up the journey from Medellin to Salento or Armenia.

The important sq. will get very energetic with individuals having fun with beers and snacks at colourful chairs and tables. Sometimes you’ll see a neighborhood rancher on horseback going previous. Given its charms and the way a lot there may be to do close by, should you solely have time for one city within the espresso area, I believe Jardín is an ideal selection.

It’s a preferred weekend spot for Colombian households and remains to be solely considerably identified amongst international vacationers. There are ten or-so backpacker hostels and lots of small-scale motels to select from in Jardin.

What to do in Jardín

You can hike to a number of waterfalls. The Cueva del Esplendor (Cave of Splendor) is inside a cavern and might solely be reached by the use of an organized tour. La Garrucha, a small metallic gondola that takes you up the mountain, was sadly out of fee after I visited, but it surely’s meant to be a enjoyable attraction when it’s open. Paragliding, birdwatching, espresso excursions, and horseback driving are the opposite actions on supply. You can guide day excursions from Medellin that return the identical day, however should you’re staying longer, you possibly can guide actions from native businesses or your lodging.

Where to remain in Jardín

The cozy family-run Hostal Naty Luna is a pleasant spot for backpackers and it’s the place I stayed, although it being a bit cramped I’d really counsel La Tangara Rural hostal as an alternative. For a ravishing boutique lodge, try Casa Passiflora Hotel.

Where to eat in Jardín

The city is understood for its trout farms the place you will get very recent fish at very low costs (ask them to grill it as an alternative of frying it if you’d like it extra ‘Western’ fashion). La Argelia Restaurante Truchera simply exterior of city is a enjoyable expertise throughout lunchtime. Don’t miss brunch or espresso at Café Macanas subsequent to the principle church. The artisanal ice cream at Cocoa Café Francés is out of this world — is it bizarre that I had probably the perfect gelato of my life in a small mountain city in Colombia?

Tip: Most locations within the Zona Cafetera will likely be noticeably busier on the weekends as native vacationers from Medellin and Bogota go to. Choose weekdays for any locations the place you’d wish to have a quieter time. The distinction is especially noticeable in Salento and Jardin.

Manizales

To add some selection to your Zona Cafetera itinerary, it’s value visiting Manizales. This small college metropolis gives mountain views on each aspect, although it’s extra of a waypoint than a vacation spot in itself. It doesn’t actually have an outdated heart and there aren’t that many cultural sights, but it surely does have some nice issues to see close by.

It’s nonetheless good to spend perhaps half a day on this non-touristy metropolis in Colombia, then use it as a springboard to visiting Los Nevados National Park.

There you possibly can expertise the páramo — a novel high-altitude ecosystem situated solely within the Andes of Ecuador, Peru, and Colombia.

On the misty slopes, you’ll see fields of frailejones, unusual tree-like crops that develop as much as 3 meters in top and are distant cousins of the sunflower.

Trekking, biking, or jeep excursions of Los Nevados may be simply booked regionally, comparable to by means of Ecosystemas Travel. I did my tour with them and liked it (although some Spanish information will likely be very useful).

Unlike the delicate climates within the espresso zone, the Los Nevados National Park will likely be principally very chilly and misty, however that makes it an attention-grabbing break in your Zona Cafetera route. Many of the excursions cease by volcanic thermal baths, letting you loosen up and heat up earlier than returning to your lodging.

What to do in Manizales

Visit the Plaza de Toros bull ring, get some nice views from Chipre Tower, experience the cable automotive connecting the 2 components of the town, or hit up the nightlife; being a giant pupil metropolis it’s identified for its many bars close to the college areas round Estrella within the east. Manizales has an general higher fame for security than Bogota or Medellin. And, after all, you possibly can guide a tour of Los Nevados.

Where to remain in Manizales

I stayed at Hostal de la 57 which was completely advantageous. For a lodge within the centre, try Quo Quality Hotel (I can’t consider this fancy lodge is simply 40 bucks an evening) or Lodge Paraíso Verde for a ravishing finca within the close by mountains.

Where to eat in Manizales

There are a great deal of worldwide meals locations round Estrella serving fashionable meals at very inexpensive costs. Check out Oryza Food Co, Alchile Taquería, or Callejera Street Food. There can be a form of hipster meals court docket at Magnolio Mercado Gastronómico which additionally has a number of bars serving native craft beers.

Salamina

Despite being acknowledged as one of many heritage cities of Colombia, Salamina appears nearly unknown amongst worldwide vacationers. It takes 3 hours to get to Salamina from Manizales; as a result of it’s a bit out of the way in which it isn’t touristy within the slightest.

If you take pleasure in straying off the standard path and respect the authenticity, then Salamina is without doubt one of the most charming stops within the Zona Cafetera. (It might be tied with Jerico as my private favorites.)

While Salamina itself is pretty low-key, there may be one main attraction close by: the Valle de la Samaria. Much just like the vacationer scorching spot of Valle del Cocora close to Salento, you possibly can see towering wax palm timber on this valley, a few of that are identified to be among the many tallest palm timber on the planet. The solely distinction is that in Valle de la Samaria you may be nearly alone.

I’ve shared rather more details about find out how to get to Salamina and the valley in my put up about alternatives to Salento. It takes a little bit of effort to get to, but it surely’s properly value it.

What to do in Salamina

Part of the enchantment is simply to observe native life, perhaps go on a hike across the city, and go to the native outlets. Then hop on a jeep to the village of San Felix and hike across the Valle de la Samaria.

Where to remain in Salamina

Bonsai Casa Hotel is the principle budget-friendly backpacker lodge. For a extra upscale boutique choice, try both La Estancia or Hotel Boutique La Leyenda 1860. These nonetheless supply unbelievable offers and worth for cash. If you wish to keep contained in the valley, the best choice is Eco Hotel Valle de la Samaria — I stayed there and it’s a really particular place!

Where to eat in Salamina

Lola Gourmet on the principle sq. does a really good set meal.

Filandia

The small city of Salento is the most important vacationer vacation spot in Colombia’s espresso zone, however because it’s been getting overcrowded lately, the close by city of Filandia has been getting among the overflow. I like it as an alternative to Salento — it’s extra relaxed, however nonetheless energetic sufficient to decide on it as your base on this space.

The colourful colonial city of Filandia sits atop a hill overlooking the rolling inexperienced hills of the espresso area. Coffee farmers and ranchers are its important inhabitants, but it surely’s additionally tourist-friendly with fashionable eating places round the principle sq., plenty of hostels and small motels, and loads of enjoyable actions within the space.

What to do in Filandia

Visit close by espresso farms, mountain bike to the city of Quimbaya, hike to hidden waterfalls or go to the Barbas-Bremen reserve the place you possibly can spot howler monkeys. Take a day to see the gorgeous palm timber in Cocora Valley.

Where to remain in Filandia

I used to be on a funds and stayed at Bidea Hostel, a considerably labyrinthine but cozy hostel with a fantastic environment. For a bit of extra upscale lodging, I counsel the boutique lodge El Reloj Casa. Outside of city and among the many espresso fields, you may also discover a ravishing Selina hostel on the positioning of a former espresso farm that gives every thing from bungalows to glamping to lodge rooms.

Where to eat in Filandia

A string of eating places on the north aspect gives gorgeous sundown views of the panorama along with some wonderful meals — specifically, don’t miss Helena Adentro or Cultivar.

Pijao

The mountain city of Pijao was my final cease on this journey; it was a last-minute addition based mostly on the advice of a good friend. Located south of Armenia, it’s one other extremely genuine and quiet vacation spot, much like Jerico or Salamina.

The city’s title won’t appear Spanish and that’s as a result of it refers back to the indigenous Pijao people who have been dwelling within the present-day division of Tolima, Colombia.

It’s a really peaceable city with barely any international vacationers, finest appreciated should you’re in search of a easy place surrounded by inexperienced mountains. You can both keep within the city itself or go for one of many fincas (transformed farms) or eco-cabañas on the close by slopes.

Pijao could be placed on the journey map a bit extra sooner or later. I’ve heard rumors that Selina is planning to open a hostel/lodge there, which can little doubt entice just a few extra travellers and digital nomads to this excellent little place.

What to do in Pijao

There are a number of mountain hikes you are able to do within the space. Ask regionally for the place the trailheads are. Use apps like MAPS.me or Alltrails that will help you discover the way in which; there are indicators however not that many. I did a beautiful day hike alongside the river. You may go up the mountain to the Páramo de Chili — a fantastic alternative to see one of these ecosystem in a self-guided manner. This glorious weblog on Pijao has extra recommendations and I heard some nice issues concerning the Wakecup Coffee Tour in Pijao (which I sadly needed to miss).

Where to remain in Pijao

I stayed in Casa Victoria which was simply pleasant. It has some very good rooms and a really pleasant and welcoming proprietor. The terrace searching in direction of the river permits you to swing in a hammock or chat with different company. The proprietor can present numerous details about climbing trails and different actions.

Where to eat in Pijao

For nice lunch set meals go to the meals stalls situated behind the principle plaza on the aspect of the river. Cafe Montanero does good Colombian dinners and for nice espresso you should definitely go to La Floresta.