The Western Arthurs Traverse (WAT) is one in all Australia’s most spectacular and difficult treks. Situated within the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, it’s a lollipop-shaped route that negotiates the western part of the famously rugged and inclement Arthur Range. Encapsulating a dramatic assortment of jagged quartzite peaks, hanging valleys and glacier-carved lakes, the route is appropriate for knowledgeable hikers armed with good scrambling abilities, storm-worthy shelters, and a stoic’s disregard for mud and driving rain. The planning information under options map suggestions, logistical data, suggestions and trekking notes, and final however not least, some unbelievable photographs from Viktor Posnov.
Lake Uranus | Western Arthurs Traverse (picture by Viktor Posnov).
Note: Since 2002 I’ve trekked the western part of the Arthurs on three events. During my most up-to-date go to in 2016, the complete Arthur vary represented the ultimate stage of what was a 24-day traverse of Tasmania’s Southwest Wilderness.
At a Glance
Distance: 49 miles (79 km) approx.
Difficulty Level: Challenging
Start / Finish: Scotts Peak Dam (aka Port Davey Track Northern Trailhead).
Permits: As of December 2018, no particular allow is required to hike the WAT, nonetheless, all hikers would require a Tasmanian National Parks Pass. These could be bought on-line, at National Park Visitor Centres, Service Tasmania Shops, and most accredited Tasmanian Travel Information Centres.
Western Arthurs Traverse Overview Map (From the primary ebook in my Wanderlust collection of climbing books: “Wanderlust: Hiking on Legendary Trails“)
Average Time: 5 – 8 days
- The time wanted to do that hike can differ significantly relying on the circumstances, in addition to the health and expertise of the hiker in query. As a basic reference, John Chapman, the creator of the wonderful South West Tasmania climbing guidebook, suggests between 10 to 12 days. Personally, I feel this can be a conservative estimate. I’d say 5 to eight days can be a extra acceptable time-frame for many aspirants, given a comparatively gentle pack weight (i.e. not more than 7 kg base weight), a great degree of health and expertise, and a blended bag with the climate.
Season:
- December to March. Snow, excessive winds and heavy rain are potential at any time of 12 months.
Direction of Travel:
- Although the hike could be accomplished in both route, I’d advocate getting into a counter-clockwise route. This locations the prevailing winds at your again if you find yourself up on the crest, no small factor when the Roaring Forties (see under for particulars) are coming by means of, rain is pelting down at a forty five° angle, and also you’re scrambling up and down an uncovered knife edge.
Yours actually about to make the descent to Lake Oberon in uncommonly fantastic circumstances.
Getting There and Away:
Scott Peak Dam is located about three to 4 hours drive from Hobart. As of December 2018, there aren’t any public transport choices to the Scott Peak Dam trailhead.
Shuttle: If you don’t have a automobile, Tasmanian Wilderness Experiences run on-demand shuttles, which require a minimal of two folks.
Bus & Hitching: If you’re by your self and looking out to avoid wasting money, take into account catching a bus to Westerway from Hobart (approx. 2hrs). From this level, you’ll want to stay your thumb out. It’s roughly 50 km from Westerway to the turn-off to Scotts Peak, after which one other 33 km alongside the nicely maintained Scotts Peak Dam Road to the trailhead. It has been my expertise over time that so long as you look semi-presentable and have a smile in your face, hitching remains to be fairly straightforward in Tassie when you’re out of the larger cities.
Lake Oberon (picture by Viktor Posnov).
Maps & General Information
- TASMAP 1:25,000 – Three topographic maps cowl the complete route. They are Crossing, Razorback and Glovers. TASMAP’s topographic maps can be found for digital obtain (A$2 every as of December 2018).
- TASMAP 1:100,000 Old River. Useful for overview functions, nonetheless, when the climate turns nasty, you’ll be glad you’re carrying the 1:25,000 maps.
- John Chapman’s South West Tasmania consists of maps and trekking notes. Now in its sixth version (2017).
- Do I actually need to take all of that?: In this point in time more and more extra persons are leaving paper maps and compass at house, and having all their navigational eggs within the one digital basket (i.e. their smartphone). I don’t advocate doing this for the Western Arthur Traverse. The terrain and climate on this space isn’t any joke, and if one thing occurs to your cellphone in the course of the trek, it’s possible you’ll nicely end up stranded up poo creek with out a technological paddle. My recommendation is as follows: 1. Download all three of the 1:25,000 maps and the 2 1:100,000 maps. Have them in your cellphone and print them out as nicely. Keep all data in sealable plastic luggage; 2. Buy Chapman’s ebook, and take photographs of the trekking notes to maintain in your cellphone for reference functions; 3. Take a compass and hold monitor of the place you’re in your maps always.
The view from Mount Scorpio | Western Arthurs Traverse (Photo by Viktor Posnov).
- Food: This is a wilderness trek and there’s nowhere to purchase meals alongside the best way. You might want to carry all the things you want from go to whoa. While I’d by no means advocate speeding throughout a hike, as a result of rugged nature of the terrain, I’d counsel making an attempt to complete the Western Arthurs Traverse in eight days or much less. This might imply barely longer climbing hours than typical, however the payoff is much less weight in your again whereas out on the path.
- Water: For probably the most half, H2O could be present in abundance. That stated, there’s a high-level stretch or two – the Beggary Bumps involves thoughts – by which aspirants might want to carry ample water for 4 to 5 hours of powerful climbing. See Chapman’s information for particulars.
Yours actually trying again over the Beggary Bumps.
Trekking Notes
The Rollercoaster : The spotlight of the Western Arthurs Traverse is the 30 km (18 mi) plus stretch alongside the vary’s undulating crest. During this part just about all the trekking will probably be both steeply up or precipitously down. If you’re searching for a hike in which you’ll stretch out and canopy huge distances, it could be greatest to look elsewhere. In the Arthurs 1 to 1.5 km per hour is usually excellent going. That being stated, the payoff for all of your exertions comes within the type of persistently jaw-dropping vistas, and the satisfaction that comes with assembly and adapting to the rigours of unforgiving environments.
Cloud creeping by means of the jagged quartzite ridge line (Mount Hayes aspect journey / Viktor Posnov).
The Muddy Plains and Staying on Track: With all of the precipitation it receives (see Weather under), it’s no shock that there’s fairly a little bit of mud within the low-lying areas across the Arthur Range. During the WAT hikers will doubtless encounter boggy circumstances just about all over the place besides the crest. The most sustained part of mud-slogging will doubtless be the 19 km (11 mi) stretch from Cracroft Crossing to Junction Creek. Please resist the urge to “bog skirt”, as this may contribute to erosion, broken vegetation, altered hydrology and a widening of trails. Suck it up, settle for the circumstances for what they’re, and wade on by means of.
Kiwi Dave on the Arthurs Plains throughout our 2002 Western Arthurs Traverse.
The opening/closing stretch from Scotts Peak Dam to Junction Creek isn’t with out its boggy moments as nicely.
Overgrown Terrain: Quite a number of components of the path between the Moraine Ok junction and Lake Roseanne are overgrown on account of a comparative lack of use (see Alternates under). Many hikers will really feel extra snug carrying a protracted sleeve shirt and pants throughout this part.
The Weather: One can not discuss climbing in Tasmania’s southwest wilderness with out making particular point out of the climate. On common it rains 250 days per 12 months on this a part of the world. And I’m not speaking drizzly Seattle or UK-type precipitation. The Arthurs performs host to a few of the wildest and most unpredictable circumstances on the planet. Thanks in no small half to the Roaring Forties – gale-force westerly winds discovered within the Southern Hemisphere, usually between 40° and 50° latitude – backcountry journeys on this vary are a barometrical roll of the cube at any time of 12 months. In addition to a storm-worthy shelter and good moist climate gear, an ironic sense of humour is very advisable.
TIP: Make miles whereas the solar shines – The odds are excellent that you’ll encounter dodgy climate in some unspecified time in the future throughout your hike. That stated, storms usually go as rapidly as they arrive on this a part of South West Tassie. That being the case, if you find yourself introduced with a transparent meteorological window, you’ll want to take advantage of it. This sometimes might translate to climbing longer hours, in an effort to compensate for the opposite instances by which you have to to chop your days quick on account of inclement circumstances.
‘Watching the storm roll in, and then I watch roll away again’; an Otis Redding second within the Arthurs (Photo by Viktor Posnov).
Pack Weight: I can not over-emphasise the significance of preserving your pack weight at an affordable degree for the Western Arthurs Traverse. In any sort of terrain, a lighter pack will translate to a extra pleasurable on-trail expertise. However, in a rugged atmosphere such because the Arthurs it makes an excellent larger distinction, not solely when it comes to climbing consolation but in addition with regard to security. For instance, if you find yourself scrambling up and down slippery rocks and root-laden cliffs within the pouring rain, a lighter pack will translate to not solely enhanced agility but in addition free your thoughts of the burden of a heavy load, so you’ll be able to focus solely on the job at hand.
This planning information isn’t the place for an in-depth gear weight dialogue. If you have an interest in dropping your base weight with out compromising security (in precise reality you’ll be growing it), take a look at the Gear and Going Light sections of the web site (see prime navigation bar), or check out “Tips for Hiking in Cold and Wet Weather”, for environment-specific solutions.
Square lake (picture by Viktor Posnov).
Camping
The difficult nature of climbing within the Arthurs is considerably mitigated by the truth that there are a collection of established campsites located at common intervals alongside the route. Most of those are positioned in “relatively” sheltered spots with water sources shut by. In different phrases, when the weather have taken an inclement flip and/or your power ranges are low, you’ll by no means must go too far earlier than you’ll be able to probably name it a day.
On the crest, the principle tenting areas sport timber platforms. They even have modular bogs, which could be flown out by helicopter when full. Neither of those options are aesthetically pleasing, nonetheless, they play an essential function in serving to to minimise the injury to the Arthurs fragile alpine atmosphere. No small matter, contemplating the rise in climbing numbers lately.
In regards to tenting on these timber platforms, most of them have nails and pre-tied items of rope alongside the sides which can assist to make pitching simpler. However, that is under no circumstances assured. Just in case, you’ll want to deliver alongside some additional guyline in an effort to tie-out your tent.
Wild campsite on the West Portal (picture by Viktor Posnov).
Alternates
Due to the customarily inclement nature of the climate within the Arthurs, many (most?) hikers select to do abbreviated variations of the WAT. The two most important bailout factors are Epsilon Moraine (located a bit NW of Mount Orion) and Kappa Moraine (aka Moraine Ok). The latter represents the commonest alternate and cuts off roughly 30 km (18 mi) from the general distance. Both of those alternate routes hyperlink as much as the Mackaye Track, which leads again to Junction Creek and the Scott Peak Dam trailhead.
Kiwi Dave gazing out in the direction of Promontory Lake from simply above the Moraine Kappa Junction | Western Arthurs Traverse, 2002.
Six Recommended Side Trips
Many of the perfect views in the course of the Western Arthurs Traverse come from doing aspect journeys alongside the route. Below are six of probably the most extremely advisable excursions:
- Mount Hayes: Stage 2 – Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon) – 600 m / 40 minutes return
- Dorado Peak: Stage 3 – Lake Oberon and High Moor – 1.2 km / 2 hrs return
- Mount Columba: Stage 3 – Lake Oberon to High Moor – 500 m / quarter-hour return
- Mount Aldebaran: Stage 4 – between High Moor to Haven Lake – 2.2 km / 2 hours return.
- Mount Scorpio: Stage 5 – Haven Lake to Kappa Moraine Jct – 100 m / 10 min return.
- West Portal: Stage 7 – Promontory Lake to Lake Rosanne) – 800 m / 40 min return.
Side journey to Dorado Peak, in Western Arthurs Range. In Viktor’s phrases: “It was crazy weather all day; it was sunny on the western side of the range, but the Southern side of the mountains was covered in a blanket of very thick fog.” (Photo by Viktor Posnov).
Experiencing a ravishing sundown in a spot famend for stormy climate is a bit like kissing a woman you will have lengthy admired from afar, however by no means thought you had an opportunity with. You can’t fairly consider it’s taking place, however when it truly does you don’t need it to finish | Sunset from the West Portal (picture by Viktor Posnov).
FAQ’s
I’m unsure if I’ve the expertise to do the Western Arthurs traverse of the Arthurs. Can you advocate simpler and shorter choices in SW Tassie?
Yes, the South Coast Track and Mount Anne Circuit characterize shorter and mellower alternate options. Chapman’s ebook accommodates all the knowledge you have to.
Do I have to deliver rope?
In his information ebook, Chapman recommends bringing 20 meters of rope for pack reducing functions. I respectfully disagree. If you’re in fine condition, have respectable scrambling capacity, and your pack doesn’t weigh the proverbial tonne (and actually you must tick all of those bins in case you are planning on doing this hike), rope isn’t essential. Indeed, for my part, it’ll solely add extra weight to your pack, making an already difficult hike even more durable than it must be.
I’ve heard it stated that the Western Arthurs is superior to the Eastern part; is that this true?
No. The western a part of the vary is simpler to entry, and except for Federation peak, it’s the extra in style a part of the mountain chain. However, having hiked the complete vary in each instructions, for my part, the entire chain is equally stunning, equally difficult, and hikers are equally more likely to really feel the brunt of the weather, regardless of whereabouts they’re located between Scotts Peak Dam and Farmhouse Creek (the eastern-most terminus). For these thinking about a traverse of the complete vary, see the Arthur Range Traverse Planning Guide.
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Summary
Hiking within the Arthur Range is an train in endurance, perseverance and meteorological religion. If you’re afforded an prolonged stretch of fantastic circumstances, take into account your self lucky to have witnessed a few of the greatest mountain surroundings in Australasia. On the opposite hand, if a giant storm entrance rumbles by means of and all you see is horizontal rain and thick fog for 3 straight days, merely shrug your shoulders, have an ironic chuckle and attempt to keep in mind that Mother Nature doesn’t have a duplicate of your climbing itinerary. Either manner, climbing the Western Arthurs Traverse will probably be a visit you’ll always remember.
Postscript: For extra wonderful photographs from the Western Arthurs Traverse, see Viktor Posnov’s Western Arthurs compilation. You can even observe him on instagram, fb and Flickr.
(L to R) Cam Honan and Viktor Posnov | For the lowdown on how Viktor and I met in 2016, see The Ukrainian from Cincinnati.