The Berlin High Trail (Berliner Höhenweg in German) is an ambulatory gem of the Zillertal Alps and one among Austria’s best multi-day treks. During its oscillating course, hikers will traverse breathtaking passes and deep glacial valleys, whereas having fun with dramatic views of jagged granite peaks and shimmering alpine lakes. I accomplished the Berliner Höhenweg in mid-October 2019, as a part of an prolonged journey within the Alps. It was the final of 4 excessive trails I did through the Austrian leg of the journey; the others being the Stubaier Höhenweg (see Trip Report/Guide), Schladming Tauern Höhenweg, and the Wormser Höhenweg.
Overlooking the Schlegeisspeicher Reservoir from the path between Friesenberg and Olperer Huts.
Note: The data under is essentially directed in direction of impartial hikers, relatively than people going as a part of organized trekking teams.
At a Glance
Distance: 86 km (53 mi)
Average Duration: 7 to 9 days (see How Long will it Take? for particulars)
Difficulty Level: Moderate to demanding
Total Elevation Gain: 6,605 m (21,670 ft)
Start: Finkenberg
Finish: Mayrhofen
High Point: Schönbichler Scharte (3,081 m/10,108 ft)
Which course?: I don’t suppose it issues an excessive amount of. The Cicerone information books referenced under describe the path in a clockwise course, whereas helpful native web sites resembling Tirol.at element the trail in a counter-clockwise course (which is the best way I did it).
What’s in a Name?: The Berlin High Trail is often known as the Zillertal Rucksack Route and Zillertaler Runde Tour. For the needs of this text, I selected to go along with ‘Berlin High Trail’ because it appears to be probably the most generally used title in Austria, together with on Mayrhofen’s and Tyrol’s official web sites. For customers of the Cicerone Guide books talked about under, observe that in “Walking in Austria” it’s known as the Zillertal Hohenweg, whereas in “Trekking in the Zillertal Alps” it’s known as the Zillertal Rucksack Route.
Overview map of the path (as seen in Cicerone Press, Trekking within the Zillertal Alps)
Getting There & Away:
- The transport hub of the Zillertal Valley is the village of Mayrhofen, which is serviced by common bus (2 hrs) and prepare companies (1.5 hrs) from the close by metropolis of Innsbruck (the capital of the Tyrol area). From Mayrhofen to Finkenberg, you may both stroll (4.5 km/2.8 mi) or take bus #4104.
Striking the pose in downtown Innsbruck.
Season:
- The climbing season within the Austrian Alps is usually between late June to mid/late September. In a median climate yr, September is good. The faculty vacation crowds are gone, the summer season thunderstorms (usually brief) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are much less crowded.
- Off-season: Depending on the snow ranges and expertise of the aspirant, the Berlin High Trail will also be performed within the late spring or early to mid-fall. When climbing at these instances, you might require an ice axe and traction units. Note that the full-service huts are closed at these instances, so you have to to hold your whole personal meals and maybe a tent/tarp (Note: Most of the huts have small winter rooms (“winterraums” in German) that stay open through the low season. See Accommodation under for particulars).
- Personally Speaking: The Berlin High Trail was the final of my multi-day journeys within the Austrian Alps. I hiked it in mid-October, 2019 and aside from a holidaying Russian mountain information on the Olperer Hutte, I didn’t meet some other ramblers alongside the best way. Due to a long-standing aversion to crowds, I usually choose to hike well-liked trails such because the BHT within the low season, and am keen to just accept the probability of more difficult circumstances in alternate for the present of solitude. In the case of the Berlin High Trail, I acquired all that I bargained for and extra on the meteorological entrance, within the type of persistent freezing rain, snow, and icy circumstances for a lot of the second half of the path. Temperatures through the hike ranged between 12°C (54°F) and -9°C (16°F).
The venerable Berliner Hütte (2,042 m) is the most important mountain hut within the Tyrol area and dates again to the late 1870s. Unfortunately, it was closed throughout my go to, however its cozy and splendidly dry winter room (positioned on the opposite facet of the principle constructing) was open.
Planning Information
- Guidebooks: Cicerone Press publish two books that cowl the Berlin High Trail. Walking in Austria provides a bare-bones account of the path, whereas Trekking within the Zillertal Alps has a way more detailed abstract of the famed hut-to-hut route, together with trekking notes, primary maps for every part, facet journeys/alternates strategies, distance and time estimates, and logistical data on attending to and from the path. Both books can be found in Kindle model or paperback.
Nearing Friesenberg Haus, late afternoon on Day 1 (the one clear day of my hike).
- Language: German. Almost everybody you meet that’s below 60 years outdated will converse English, nevertheless, a number of easy phrases and phrases of the native tongue will all the time be appreciated by locals.
- Cell/Mobile Phone Coverage: I are likely to maintain my cellphone in flight mode whereas out within the woods, however from what I can collect, throughout climbing season some (although not all) of the huts on the Berlin High Trail have Wifi/cell reception, together with the chance to cost your cellphone and/or battery pack whether or not you’re overnighting, or simply stopping in for breakfast or lunch.
- Cash or Card?: All of the huts had been closed once I did the BHT, nevertheless, it appears that evidently through the climbing season (as of 2022) among the path’s refuges’ don’t settle for digital cost. Just to make sure, strive calling or emailing the huts at which you intend to remain beforehand, or alternatively, deliver alongside ample money to cowl your prices for the journey.
Friesenberg Haus overlooking a small alpine lake.
Resupply & Water:
- Food: There aren’t any villages alongside the Berlin High Route, however meals are by no means onerous to come back by through the climbing season as the entire huts are full service. It can also be attainable to buy snacks and sandwiches to go.
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- Breakfast – Usually served from round 6 to eight am. Continental-style, consisting of bread/butter/jam and low or tea.
- Lunch – Usually served from noon to 2 pm, although it might fluctuate from hut to hut. Order as a lot as you want from the menu. Beer and wine can be found.
- Dinner – Principal meal of the day and normally served between 6 pm and seven.30 pm. The set-dinner possibility is well-priced, ample in dimension, and may as soon as once more be washed down together with your selection of grownup drinks.
- Costs: Most people that in a single day on the huts go for the “half pension” possibility, which consists of dinner, mattress, and breakfast for between €45 and €55. Lunch is all the time à la carte.
- Off-season: If you have an interest in climbing out of season, you’ll have to carry all your individual provides from begin to end. If you’re lucky – it occurred to me on three separate events throughout my time in Austria – pleasant locals could have left some beers within the Winter Rooms.
- Water: Readily out there all through the hike. It can both be obtained on the huts or from streams alongside the best way. During my time within the Alps, I usually drank immediately from sources and had no intestinal points. The exception was if I used to be acquiring water downstream from huts or grazing animals, by which case I handled with Aquamira drops.
Ascending in direction of Schoenbichler Scharte (3,081m) from Furtschaglkal Haus.
Route / Conditions:
- Overview: During the summer season months the Berlin High Trail is a reasonable to demanding trek. It contains greater than 13,000 m (42,651 ft) of mixed altitude acquire and loss, and through its course, hikers will negotiate excessive passes, uncovered traverses, boulder fields, and steep scree slopes. The path is nicely marked with splashes of pink/white paint, and main junctions are signposted. Some of the steeper sections are tackled with assistance from fastened cables (see picture under). The cable sections might be discovered on the next phases (climbing in a counter-clockwise course): 1. Furtschagl Haus to Berliner Hut; 2. Berliner Hut – Greizer Hut; 3. Greizer Hut – Kasseler Hut, and; 4. Kasseler Hut – Karl von Edel Hut. On the part between Berliner Hut and Greizer Hut there may be additionally a brief ladder part that must be negotiated.
- If climbing through the shoulder seasons do I want traction units, an ice axe, or some other specialised tools?: During my October hikes within the Alps I didn’t carry an ice axe, however I did use Salewa mountain spikes (just like Kathoola Microspikes) and was very glad to have them for among the icy excessive sections. Also on the footwear entrance, I periodically wore a mixture of merino wool socks and Montbell Gore-tex All Round Socks below my path trainers. I’d positively go along with the identical system once more if I used to be to return to the Alps within the spring or fall (Note: Depending on circumstances, I’d take into account carrying an ice axe as nicely; notably if tackling among the really helpful facet journeys talked about within the Cicerone Guide).
Descending from Schoenbichler Scharte, the very best level on the Berlin High Trail.
- How Long will it take?: In the “At a Glance” part I point out that the typical length of a BHT hike is 7 to 9 days. That stated, the period of time wanted can fluctuate drastically relying on various components. Fit and skilled ramblers carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve a very good run with the climate, can comfortably do the journey in 4 or 5 days (Note: The longer daylight of summer season would clearly assistance on this entrance).
- Highlights: I’m not the very best particular person to reply this query, as I had inclement circumstances for a lot of the journey. Nonetheless, I loved the expertise, and my favourite sections had been the brief stretch between Friesenberg and Olperer Huts, and the icy, knife-edge descent from Schoenbichler Scharte.
A sprinkling of fall colors on a uniformly overcast day.
Sleeping
- Mountain Huts: Virtually all hikers on the Berlin High Trail keep within the mountain huts. These regularly-spaced refuges normally boast unimaginable areas, are usually open from mid-June to mid/late September, and together with in a single day lodging, provide breakfast, lunch, and dinner. As referenced above, the very best worth can normally be discovered within the half-board provide, which consists of a three-course dinner, a mattress, and breakfast for between 45 and 55 Euros (as of 2022). Note that people affiliated with sure different European Alpine or Mountain golf equipment (e.g. UK, German, French) take pleasure in reciprocal rights.
- Continued – Mountain Huts: During the height season months of July and August, lodging ought to ideally be booked prematurely (three to 4 weeks is really helpful); this particularly holds true if you’re climbing in a gaggle. For many of the huts, you may select between bunking down in a shared dormitory or non-public room. Hiking in a counter-clockwise course, the lodging choices alongside the path are as follows: 1. Gamshütte; 2. Friesenberghaus; 3. Olpererhütte; 4. Furtschaglhaus; 5. Berliner Hütt; 6. Greizerhütte; 7. Kasseler Hütte, and; 8. Edelhütte
- Is Wild Camping Possible within the Austrian Alps?: Officially talking………….it’s difficult. There isn’t any “everyman’s right/freedom to roam” in Austria, and alpine zone tenting laws can fluctuate considerably between states. The Berlin High Trail is positioned within the Tyrol area. According to the Austrian Alpine Club, tenting outdoors of official campsites in Tyrol is prohibited, excluding “for a short period of time when required by the occasion.” Before wild campers get too excited, the web site additionally states that “deliberate bivouacking is equated with staying in a tent! Violations can result in fines of up to 14,500 euros, depending on the federal state.” In actuality, I think when you had been to remain nicely away from huts and farms, arrange simply earlier than darkish in a stealthy spot, depart at daybreak the following day, and diligently observe LNT rules always, you’d be unlikely to have any points. Click right here for an in depth overview of the tenting scenario in Austria.
- Winter Rooms (“winterraums”): Although I did carry a shelter on the Berlin High Trail, I ended up spending all of my nights within the winter rooms. These little sanctuaries are a godsend on the finish of a protracted day in tough circumstances. They are usually an annex to the principle hut and stay open all yr spherical.
Looking again in direction of the Furtschagl Haus
Mid-morning break on the Furtschagl Haus winter room.
View from the Olperer winter room.
Final Thoughts on the BHT
To some extent, my journey on the Berlin High Trail was outlined by the climate. On the primary day, I had clear skies, little wind, and cozy temperatures. On Day 2, issues began to deteriorate, although visibility was largely good excluding both facet of Schoenbichler Scharte move. On the third day, circumstances turned to shit, and for a lot of the time, I hiked in freezing rain, snow, and driving wind. With the exception of once I took a break on the Greizer Hut’s winter room, I didn’t cease for greater than a minute or two. As for the fourth and last day, it was a carbon copy of Day 3.
I understand that to most hikers, the second half of my journey sounds prefer it was depressing. And on one or two events, I might need even vented my displeasure to the climate gods with language so vibrant, that it might have made the forged of Deadwood blush. With that admission out of the best way, and as crazy as it could sound, I really take pleasure in climbing in such circumstances.
Don’t get me improper; I’m not an entire nutter. I wouldn’t need to do it on a regular basis. But I’ve all the time figured that when you’ve obtained the suitable gear, abilities, health, a optimistic mindset, and an ironic sense of humour, then climbing in such climate is a problem value embracing. It reveals what you’re able to within the backcountry when push involves shove. In my very own case, through the years I’ve discovered that my focus lasers in, and I adapt my tempo in order that hour after hour I stay in a gradual zone whereby I’m not pushing so onerous that I sweat excessively, however on the identical time I’m not dropping my climbing pace sufficient that I’m prone to turning into chilly and doubtlessly hypothermic. And if my thoughts ever begins to wander or adverse ideas creep in, I invariably consider my household, repeat a optimistic mantra, or recall a comic story from my previous, and earlier than you may say, “!#*% me, will this #!%&@*!# rain ever cease!“, I’m again on monitor once more.
So, thanks Berlin High Trail. I couldn’t have requested for a extra memorable solution to wrap up my Alpine journey of 2019.
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