Possibly SG’s oldest surviving nasi padang stall, courting again to 1948

Close to twenty years earlier than Singapore grew to become an impartial republic on 9 August 1965, Warong Nasi Pariaman began promoting genuine nasi padang from a humble espresso store on the nook of Kandahar Street. The yr was 1948, and Singapore had simply gone by way of the Japanese occupation in World War II.

Let’s skip to the current. 74 years later, Warong Nasi Pariaman can nonetheless be discovered at its unique espresso store, and similar to it did up to now, this family-run nasi padang stall continues to be allotting genuine Padang dishes to its loyal clients, a lot of whom have been frequenting it for a number of generations.

It’s believed that Warong Nasi Pariaman is the oldest surviving nasi padang stall in Singapore. Even the National Library Board’s article says so!

Warong Nasi Pariaman was established by Isrin bin Ibrahim and his spouse, Rosna binte Zainal Abidin. They migrated to Singapore within the Forties and operated their nasi padang enterprise from a avenue stall, earlier than renting a shophouse in 1948 (the exact same one on the nook of Kandahar Street) and named the enterprise after their hometown of Pariaman, a metropolis in West Sumatra.

According to the NLB article, Warong Nasi Pariaman was so fashionable within the Nineteen Nineties that they ready between 50kg to 60kg of rice per day! Isrin and his household have been sticklers for custom, and insisted on high quality substances and genuine cooking types all through the previous a long time, together with the Minangkabau custom of cooking rendang over a charcoal fireplace.

For these paying Warong Nasi Pariaman a go to, I extremely urge you to try the small glass show alongside the principle hall. 

This show was created as a part of National Heritage Board’s Singapore Food Festival, and comprises historic images of Warong Nasi Pariaman within the Nineteen Eighties. There are additionally mock set-ups that should resemble the charcoal cooking model that Warong Nasi Pariaman used, full with Milo tins that have been used to retailer the charcoal.

Ever since its inception in 1948, Warong Nasi Pariaman has solely undergone one renovation in 2013, however its inside continues to be no-fuss and easy. In reality, if it weren’t for the NHB show which knowledgeable me of Warong Nasi Pariaman’s wealthy historical past, I wouldn’t have guessed that this homely espresso store dates again 6 a long time!

I visited on a Monday afternoon round 11am and located the espresso store positively buzzing with noise. It was an organised type of chaos— you had clients “chope-ing” tables with umbrellas and tissue packets, whereas others stood round ready for an open desk. Near the ordering station, there have been 2 to three queues, all of which served totally different functions— 1 for takeaway, 1 for dine-in, and 1 for the cashier.

Isrin has retired and the family-run enterprise is now helmed by second-generation proprietor Encik Jumrin Isrif and three generations of his prolonged household. Thankfully, the meals served continues to be genuine, and its hottest dishes embody Beef Rendang, Ayam Bakar and Gulai Nangka (jackfruit curry).

Be positive to reach early although, as its dishes (particularly the jackfruit curry) are mentioned to promote out quick!

What I attempted at Warong Nasi Pariaman

I made a decision to order my nasi padang campur model (aka all combined on one plate), however you possibly can select to order yours hidang model (aka household model, the place every choice is positioned on particular person plates).

I received Gulai Nangka (jackfruit curry), Sambal Goreng, Beef Rendang (S$4.50) and Bagedel (S$1). The workers lumped the price of the two greens along with the rice and charged me S$3, making the whole value of this plate of nasi padang S$8.50. And that’s earlier than GST, thoughts you! After 7% GST, the ultimate value got here to S$9.

I need to say, this isn’t probably the most wallet-friendly nasi padang.

This was my first time attempting Gulai Nangka, so I used to be extremely excited to see the way it’d end up.

The jackfruit had soaked up all that beautiful curry gravy, leading to delicate but chewy bites that resulted in explosions of curried spice and coconut goodness. The texture fascinated me— it jogged my memory of stewed cabbage, simply with a firmer exterior. 

My solely gripe could be that some items got here full with the core of the younger jackfruit, which was too powerful to eat. I’d nonetheless order this once more although, as I beloved the way in which it had absorbed all that lemak curry gravy, making it an actual pleasure to slowly devour.

As the priciest factor on my plate, I had hoped that Warong Nasi Pariaman could be comparatively beneficiant with the Beef Rendang, however as a substitute was sadly upset to solely obtain 1 piece that was roughly the dimensions of my metallic spoon.

This single piece value me S$4.50— I imply, I do know complete meals that value nearly half of this!

With a single push of my spoon, the Beef Rendang got here aside into clear, skinny strips of meat. Each piece of beef was extremely juicy and I might style aromatic coconut and a slight smokiness, whereas the housemade rempah added a wealthy savouriness.

This was Beef Rendang that was extremely nicely performed. How was it in a position to retain its moisture whereas nonetheless being this tender? Probably as a result of it was slow-cooked over a charcoal fireplace, similar to the way it was performed within the Forties.

Was it well worth the S$4.50 price ticket although? Not a lot, sadly, because the portion served was little, leading to it being polished off straight away.

The Sambal Goreng intrigued me as a result of the lengthy beans had been snipped into tiny, one inch-long items, and it got here with loads of different substances, resembling tempeh, tofu, onions and sambal.

Every spoonful of Sambal Goreng melded collectively to create a crunchy chunk that was full of umami-filled flavours. I beloved that the tempeh had been minimize into small items as nicely, in order that the fermented notes would permeate all the things I ate.

I had zero intentions of including anything to my plate, however all it took was one take a look at Warong Nasi Pariaman’s large Bagedel (S$1) and I used to be offered. 

In reality, at first sight, I didn’t consider these have been Bagedel as a result of they have been bigger than golf balls or meatballs! Funnily sufficient, they have been the identical measurement as my piece of Beef Rendang. How ironic.

This was not like every other Bagedel I’ve had. There have been precise chunks of potato cubes inside, in addition to mashed potatoes and different inexperienced greens. In a way, the creamy filling jogged my memory of potato salad, simply with out the mayo. Unfortunately, the Bagedel I had was too salty, as if somebody had unintentionally added an excessive amount of salt and pepper. 

The better part about my meal at Warong Nasi Pariaman was the Sambal. Though it regarded lethally spicy, it was fantastically smoky, as if the chillies had been roasted over a charcoal fireplace. The aroma of thick smoke lingered in my mouth earlier than and after every mouthful. 

Final ideas

After eating at Warong Nasi Pariaman, I lastly understood how this humble family-run restaurant has managed to outlive 6 a long time in thriving, fashionable Singapore. Though it’s not the most affordable nasi padang I’ve had (I’m speaking about you, my S$4.50 Beef Rendang), I can undoubtedly see myself coming again right here for extra. 

The meals is easy but so completely cooked, with conventional tried-and-tested cooking strategies which have survived the take a look at of time. The crowd speaks for itself, with diners from each race, faith and age filling up the tables on this no-frills espresso store only for a style of conventional nasi padang. 

With every plate of nasi padang being a testomony to its wealthy historical past, Warong Nasi Pariaman is a must-try, particularly for all you nasi padang lovers on the market.

Expected injury: S$8 – S$20 per pax

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