A Hidden Gem Island in Turks and Caicos With More Donkeys Than People

In a sea of cruise ships and vacationers, the place tchotchkes circulation like wine, lies an outlier. An island of soul, with a previous that has formed fashionable historical past, and a tradition of quick associates, chilly beer, and off-the-grid journey. Salt Cay, Turks and Caicos, a 2.9-square-mile patch of land about 35 minutes south of Grand Turk by boat, was as soon as a thriving city. Now, the 40 full-time residents are nicely outnumbered by the wild donkeys that decision the island dwelling. From the island’s solely bar and restaurant, to the native fishermen, to the world-class diving, Salt Cay presents a singular alternative to get off the crushed bathtub and into the solar.

I’m tagging alongside on an archaeological expedition, and with a small airstrip and just one bar and restaurant on the island, we choose to fulfill in Grand Turk earlier than heading to Salt Cay. Our twin propeller aircraft operated by InterCaribbean (one in all solely two airways that fly out and in of Grand Turk) is cramped, and the vents blow sizzling air. As the sweat beads on my brow, I discover myself distracted. Not by the turbulence, however the electrical glow of the bluest water I’ve ever seen. The tides ripple over the coral heads beneath, and the zebra patterns of deep sapphire and turquoise water are interrupted by clouds of orange sea grass caught adrift within the present.

As our aircraft touches down, we shuffle off in a horde and down a cell staircase, the place we’re herded to baggage declare. A single conveyor belt in a single-gate airport begins to roll, and our baggage are collected. Introductions are made, and our group strikes exterior to a pair of golf carts (a most popular technique of transportation on each Grand Turk and Salt Cay). Turks and Caicos is a British Overseas Territory, so driving on the left facet of the highway is an adjustment, however a enjoyable one. We cart previous donkeys, vacationers, locals, new building, and homes from colonial rule.

We arrive on the Osprey Beach Hotel and drop off half of our group. I, and some others, putt down the highway to our resort for the night time, the Manta House. While off the well-trodden path, each of those stays are solely a brief stroll from one of many best-kept secrets and techniques of the island, Sandbar. The wind blows throughout the electrical teal water as my naked toes meet the picket ground. Goggles, one of many native canine that run in packs round Grand Turk, greets us like we’re long-lost associates. We watch the solar set because the final slice of orange dips past the horizon. A legendary inexperienced flash pops.

The following morning, we go grocery purchasing, button up our last plans for the two-week tour, and meet Richard and Elliot from Salt Cay Divers (the native dive store) on the boat dock to hold us south, to the land of salt and silence.

The water is calm as we go away the harbor. A cruise ship has simply arrived. The 35-minute boat trip is a straight shot, and the tide begins to swell as we go away the protection of the leeward facet of Grand Turk. The boat rocks, reducing via the small waves. What was a pinpoint on the horizon grows in dimension as we method the Salt Cay harbor. The white sand, the cliff face of the bluff, and the Coral Reef Bar & Grill, are all a welcome sight. As the boat reaches Deane’s Dock (the island’s solely harbor), we’re greeted by a number of islanders, together with one in all Enrique Dickenson. Enrique is sporting black lengthy pants and a long-sleeved T-shirt—his customary apparel. He’s the island entrepreneur, and one in all his many companies is golf cart leases. He brings us carts, greets us like we’re previous associates, and we load our gear for transport to our homes.

The majority of the group stays at Harbourside House, and three keep at Marshwiggle. All are lodging are owned by and obtainable to ebook via the dive store. The Harbourside House is a related duplex with one bed room on one facet and two bedrooms on the opposite. Full kitchens provide ample storage for groceries and greater than sufficient area to organize full meals. The entrance door opens to a rocking chair-lined porch overlooking the crystalline waters to the west. Donkeys and chickens are in abundance, with the occasional cow strolling down the filth highway. Three others and I keep at ZaZen, owned by Karen, the dive store proprietor.

We are woken up by the crow of a rooster simply earlier than the solar breaks the horizon every morning. With no paved roads, we spend our first days trekking and carting the filth paths that join the island. History runs deep and is ingrained in each particular person and place right here. Salt Cay’s largest trade (salt manufacturing) started within the late 1600s, when British colonists from Bermuda developed the salinas (salt ponds) and the infrastructure. Slave labor was used to develop the island right into a key world participant within the trade. The abolition of slavery and the event of salt mines marked the start of the top of the salt trade on Salt Cay. Now, we stroll previous the unkept salinas, ghosts of windmills, and houses which have stood the take a look at of time. The White House, a once-prominent dwelling, now presents a museum-like walkthrough expertise for guests to see a unique period. Across the highway, the salinas nonetheless kind salt naturally. The concreted crystals flake off and make for an ideal memento, however Salt Cay Salt Works supplies a extra refined expertise, bathtub scrubs, flavored salts, and extra.

While the land of Salt Cay is riddled with the previous, the true treasures of this place lie beneath the waves. Salt Cay Divers operates as a full-service dive store with gear leases, guided dives, and boat providers. Richard, the store supervisor and boat captain, works with our workforce to outfit everybody with gear and prep the boats for the dives forward. The small aircraft from Providenciales to Grand Turk has weight limits, so you’ll want to go away your weights and tank at dwelling, however the waters of Salt Cay have a wide range of websites, together with the shelf wall and loads of shipwreck places, so you’ll completely need to dive or snorkel whereas right here.

The water on the leeward facet of Salt Cay is like glass. The dive store masses us up on one of many skiffs for near-shore diving, hauling us out to a historic wreck website on their bigger double-decker catamaran. If you might be diving offshore, like we did, convey movement illness medicine. This is particularly true in the course of the early months of the yr (excessive season), when humpback whales are calving off the coast. Salt Cay provides guests the chance to go whale watching and even swim with the whales.

As we deflate our BCDs and sink beneath the floor, we’re transported. The water is a rainbow world. Fish and sharks bob and weave across the 40-foot-tall coral-covered rocks—a hazard for boats and the rationale why this space of the Caribbean is known as a shipwreck graveyard. Nurse and reef sharks prowl for his or her subsequent meal, lionfish disguise in plain sight, and a cuttlefish scurries by. Its colours change to mix in higher with its environment. Below us, a 15-foot-long anchor from a 1790 shipwreck accompanies 30 cannons misplaced to the ocean. The visibility appears limitless. As we float via the tide, a slight present pushes us adrift. Hiding behind the coral heads, we cease for a break, then swim coral head to coral head to return to our anchor line. At solely about 45 toes deep, this dive lasts nicely over an hour.

We return to Salt Cay exhausted from the day and driving the thrill of the dive. We have a fast bathe and a change of garments earlier than strolling throughout the road to the Coral Reef Bar & Grill. The wood-floored patio bar has seating for about 20. A small ramp takes you inside, the place Enrique is managing the bar. Beer, wine, soda, cocktails, and water can be found for buy. Water isn’t free on Salt Cay. We positioned our orders within the morning, and Antonia (initially from the Dominican Republic) has spent the day prepping and cooking. Each day, she presents a small number of gadgets to select from. I get the conch most days, and it’s accompanied by a big serving of peas and rice and a facet salad. Antonia smashes the conch—a really robust meat—into skinny slices. Hand battered and fried, we eat it recent out of the fryer with a beer in hand because the solar goes down. The bar fills with locals and guests alike for weekly video games of dominoes and Saturday night time karaoke. A crescendo for the locals who’ve spent the day fishing, diving, amassing salt, and displaying vacationers round.

Fifteen days on Salt Cay go by shortly, and by the top, we’re all drained, relaxed, and have been made to really feel like we’re part of the Salt Cay neighborhood. There usually are not many locations on this planet the place you’ll be able to safely journey to a distant vacation spot, be greeted by locals who’re genuinely excited to see you, pet wild donkeys, dive with sharks, eat seafood caught that day, and actually disconnect. You will likely be surrounded by historical past on a real island journey in Salt Cay.