This Tiny Surf Town in Asia Feels Like Bali Without the Crowds

In the small Sri Lankan surf city of Hiriketiya, tuk-tuks whiz previous, dodging potholes and canine sleeping within the solar. Heavy bass pumps from a makeshift bar speaker; its sound practically drowned out by the waves hitting the shore. In the water, dozens of surfers sit upright, swiveling like tops, ready for the right swell to seem.

“It’s so nice to be back, isn’t it?” I mentioned to my accomplice as a contemporary coconut appeared in entrance of me. We first got here to this crescent-shaped bay city in 2021 throughout a six-week tour round Sri Lanka. After simply at some point spent lounging on its silky smooth sand and taking dips in its light, heat waters, we knew we’d come again—this time for for much longer.

Located on Sri Lanka’s palm-fringed south coast, between Mirissa and Tangalle, Hiriketiya is roughly three hours from Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport. Word has began to unfold about this sliver of paradise, the place European vacationers come from November to April, bringing extra improvement to the world.

Since our final go to, “Hiri” has taken on a Bali vibe however with out the overtourism. A endless row of lounge chairs and surf camps line the bay, and a brand new bohemian seashore membership, La Playa, has arrange bean baggage and cocktails on the sand. Eco-friendly boutique outlets, fashionable espresso spots, and cafes promoting poke bowls have additionally popped up all through the sleepy coastal city.

And whilst you can cowl Hiri’s hits in an extended weekend, I spent a complete month right here, browsing, sipping on arrack cocktails, and reacquainting myself with my favourite piece of Sri Lanka. Read on to see why this less-trodden vacation spot is a seashore lover’s different to Asia’s extra crowded islands.

Where to Stay

Sam & Lola’s 

Surrounded by coconut and mango bushes on the hill between Pehebiya Beach and Hiriketiya Bay are two A-frame pool villas. This micro-boutique property is designed and run by an expat couple from Taiwan and Australia who met in Sri Lanka a decade in the past. The clear white interiors, gentle timber, French linen, cane-woven headboards, and bedside lamp shades give it a lightweight, ethereal aesthetic.

La Playa

Located immediately on Hiriketiya Beach, La Playa is the brand new Bali-inspired seashore membership. Above the pool and eating space are three rooms, every with a non-public balcony overlooking the water. Wood and rattan furnishings combined with impartial materials and Sri Lankan patterns enhance the tranquil rooms. Just remember, since rooms are located above a seashore bar, the music kicks off early and stays on till 10 p.m.

Le Cabanon

A minute’s stroll from the seashore, Le Cabanon was impressed by seaside getaways within the south of France. Its three rooms are all distinctive, however every is thoughtfully adorned with handcrafted picket four-poster beds, woven rattan chairs, and lotus-shaped lamps. Opt for the suite, which has a non-public terrace overlooking the monkey-filled jungle.

Mond

Tropical brutalism at its finest, Mond is a design-centric mix of polished concrete and wooden surrounded by lush greenery and an ocean backdrop. There are six minimalist rooms, outfitted with domestically made teak sliding doorways, personal terraces, linen bedding, rain showers, and ceramics designed by the Swiss proprietor. Mond’s cafe can be one in every of Hiri’s finest locations to work, with quick Wi-Fi and a contemporary, Sri Lankan-inspired brunch menu.

Where to Eat & Drink

Smoke & Bitters

Beachside ingesting and eating don’t get significantly better, arguably anyplace. This beloved outside restaurant and bar is the place to eat on the south coast. A scrumptious array of domestically impressed cocktails just like the Coco B’Smash—made with coconut cream and basil plucked from the backyard—await. But don’t drink on an empty abdomen. The meals right here is simply pretty much as good, particularly the eight-hour smoked pork stomach and the smoked native burrata topped with mango and house-cured anchovies.

Raa

The newly opened sister restaurant to Smoke & Bitters is an ode to the coconut. This arrack-only bar focuses on traditional cocktails made utilizing the native spirit and contemporary toddy, tapped straight from the coconut bushes above your head. Dishes listed here are extra conventional Sri Lankan, with a killer crab curry and a 24-hour wood-fired child jackfruit curry. The better part? It’s a foot away from the water, the place you may sit and watch the sundown and surfers.

Crab

By day, this unassuming outside cafe constructed from palm fronds and bamboo serves cafe classics like avocado toast, tropical French toast, and smoothie bowls. By night time, the workforce pumps out top-notch Sri Lankan favorites like freshly grilled fish, rooster curry, kottu, and crab curry from their tiny jungle-side kitchen.

Bacuzzi

When consolation meals cravings come calling, head to Bacuzzi. With ocean views, this open-air Italian restaurant serves piping sizzling pizzas and calzones from the oven. The Neapolitan-style private pies are served with a aspect of selfmade garlic aioli dipping sauce. If you’re searching for one thing a bit lighter, strive the pasta pomodoro or the refreshing pink gazpacho.

Where to Shop

L’Atelier

A boutique retailer meets a speakeasy, L’Atelier requires an appointment to go to. Once you’ve confirmed your time with proprietor Cassandre, a tuk-tuk takes you to the key store, hidden on the third flooring of a nondescript constructing. Inside is a one-on-one customized buying expertise the place you should purchase domestically made baggage, shirts for males, and trendy but snug ladies’s clothes designed by Cassandre herself.

Island Luxe Boutique

Across from the sand, this small store sells seashore requirements, together with eco-friendly sunscreens and bathing fits. Handwoven seashore baggage and trendy rattan purses are shipped in from Bali. The retailer’s Sri Lankan linen clothes is made close by, as are the colourful wallets and clutches crafted from upcycled plastic and used fishing rope.

Kosha

This new cash-only boutique has goodies for everybody. Soft linen shirts for women and men are made on the island, as are the silky scarves and cotton jungle-print baggage. Splashed in loud prints, the fragile shirts and clothes listed here are beachy assertion items. Natural zinc sunscreen, perfumes, surf wax, and bug spray are additionally on the market.

What to Do

Surfing

There are dozens of surf faculties lining the water right here, like Surf Lion and Dinesh’s Surf School. The educated native instructors and the bay’s steady, clear, and delicate swells make it ideally suited for studying the fundamentals. And whereas the waves can get crowded with newbies, as quickly as you catch an ideal one, one other follows.

Turtle Point

Known as Turtle Point on Google Maps, this small bay is a 10-minute tuk-tuk trip from Hiriketiya. Here, you’ll discover a slew of sea turtles swimming and feeding on seagrass. Travelers can lease snorkel gear for roughly $2, which helps help Gayan, an area conservationist devoted to defending the ocean turtles. And whereas you might even see folks feeding them, it’s not moral to hitch in.

Sunset Drinks

Around the world, something going through the setting solar is taken into account prime actual property. The identical goes for Hiriketiya. As the solar begins to dip, pull up a plastic chair and watch it disappear with a contemporary coconut or chilly Lion beer. Raa is a improbable place to submit up, however should you’re searching for a no-frills spot, seize a seat at one of many makeshift bars hanging precariously over the water. Surf Bar or Turtle Point are wonderful selections to observe as turtles poke their heads up for air and surfers glide by.