A Quick and Dirty Guide to the Alta Via 2

Located in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are one in every of Europe’s most dramatic mountain ranges. A mix of serrated limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, shimmering alpine lakes and deep, slim valleys, they’ve lengthy been a magnet for geologists, travellers and outside lovers alike. From a hiker’s perspective, this legendary sub-range of the Alps boasts an intensive system of pathways (i.e. “Vias”), and of the various trails that crisscross its rugged topography, arguably essentially the most spectacular of all of them is the 160 km (99 mi) lengthy Alta Via 2 (AV2).

I hiked the AV2 in late September 2019. Please be aware that the data under is basically directed in the direction of unbiased hikers, relatively than of us going as a part of organised trekking teams. 

Sunset on the Alta Via 2 (Tarptent Aeon Li)

At a Glance

Distance:  160 km (99.4 mi)

Duration (common):  11 to 14 days (together with a relaxation or climate day)

Difficulty Level:  Moderate to difficult

Start / Finish:

Which Direction?: I don’t assume it makes a lot of a distinction, although the vast majority of individuals appear to hike north to south; which is the way in which the route is described within the Cicerone guidebook listed under.

Elevation Gain: 11,884 m (38,990 ft)

Elevation Loss:  11,423 m  (37,477 ft)

Alta Via 2 Overview Map (“Trekking in the Dolomites”, Cicerone Guides)

Getting There & Away:

• Bressanone (Brixen) is accessible by common prepare and bus providers all 12 months spherical. It has an interesting historic centre, a number of supermarkets to replenish on provides, and loads of lodging choices the place you’ll be able to retailer additional baggage throughout your hike if wanted.

• Croce d’Aune is serviced by common Dolomiti buses to and from Feltre throughout the summer time months, however after mid-September buses come a lot much less continuously. See Rome2Rio or the Dolomiti web site for the present schedule. From Feltre, common prepare and bus providers can be found all 12 months spherical (Note: If you’re on the lookout for a spot to take pleasure in a post-AV2 celebration, Venice is lower than an hour away from Feltre by bus).

• Tip: To return from the southern terminus again to Bressanone: 1. Bus from Croce d’Aune to Feltre; 2. Connect to bus from Feltre to Trento; 3. Train from Trento to Bressanone.

Bressanone Train Station – start line of the Alta Via 2.

Season:

• Mid-June to late September. In a median climate 12 months, September is right. The faculty vacation crowds are gone, the summer time thunderstorms (typically brief) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are much less crowded. 

• Depending on the snow ranges and expertise of the aspirant, the AV2 will also be carried out within the late spring or early to mid fall. When mountaineering at these occasions, chances are you’ll require an ice axe and traction gadgets. Also be aware that the majority, if not all the huts can be closed, so you have to to hold your whole personal meals and a tent/tarp (Note: Bivouac Huts stay open throughout the low season / See Accommodation part under for particulars),

Stage 8 – Approaching the Passo delle Farangole (2814m), the deep (and steep) notch within the middle of the photograph.

Planning Information 

• Guidebook:  Gillian Price, Trekking within the Dolomites (Cicerone Guides) | Kindle model obtainable | The e book contains logistical beta, trekking notes, elevation profiles, fundamental maps (not detailed sufficient for navigation), city data, and time and distance estimates for every of the 13 phases.

• Maps: 1. Tabacco produces essentially the most detailed mountaineering maps for the Dolomites. Five 1:25,000 topo maps cowl the the complete AV2 (i.e. Sheets – 030, 07, 015, 022, 023). Also obtainable on-line from Amazon and Omnimap.com. Note that it’s potential to select them up when you arrive, however there aren’t any ensures all 5 sheets can be obtainable;  2. Alternatively, Kompass produce a 1:50,000 ‘Wanderkarte’ sequence that cowl the route (3 maps complete – Sheets 56, 59, 76).

Yours actually on a foggy Stage 12 between Rifugio Boz and Rifugio Dal Piaz.

• Permits: No permits are required to hike the AV2.

• Language:  German and Italian. A fundamental information of both positively turns out to be useful, nonetheless, many of the locals alongside the route know at the very least slightly English.

• Cell/Mobile Phone Coverage: I are inclined to hold my telephone in flight mode 99% of the time whereas hike, however from what I can inform service within the Dolomites is spotty as soon as you allow the villages/cities. That mentioned, an growing variety of huts now supply Wifi for company, and it’s normally potential to cost your telephone and/or battery pack whether or not you’re overnighting, or simply stopping in for breakfast or lunch.

Stage 4 – Puez-Odle Nature Park

• Cash or Card:  Some, although not all huts alongside the AV2 settle for bank cards. Be positive to carry alongside sufficient money simply in case you’re staying in a single or two that don’t.

• AV2 Planning Summary: I’d suggest the next course: 1. Read by this text; 2. Purchase the informative Cicerone information; 3. Download a GPX file (see above) to your telephone (I take advantage of the Gaia GPS app), and; 4. Pick up the Tabacco maps.

View from exterior Rifugio Roe simply after dawn (Stage 5).

Resupply & Water:

• Resupply:  The AV2 passes by simply the one village – Malga Ciapela in Stage 6 – the place groceries could be bought. That mentioned, procuring meals alongside the way in which is easy in case you are mountaineering throughout the summer time season. Simply eat your essential meals on the regularly-spaced Rifugi (mountain huts), at which it’s also possible to buy snacks and sandwiches to go. Note that in case you are considering mountaineering out of season, you both have to hold all your personal meals from begin to end, or undertake some detours off route alongside the way in which.  Note that the retailers and many of the lodging in Malga Ciapela additionally shut down in mid-September.

• Water:  Unlike in lots of different elements of the Alps, H20 is comparatively scarce within the higher areas of the Dolomites. According to Gillian Price within the Cicerone Guide, that is as a result of “dolomite-limestone rock (most surface water disappears underground) as well as the dearth of glaciers and permanent snowfields.” In sensible phrases, because of this hikers ought to at all times concentrate on the place their subsequent likelihood to refill can be earlier than setting out on every stage. Note that bottled water is at all times obtainable for buy within the huts – typically at very costly costs (e.g. €3 for a 1.5 lt bottle – September 2019).

A moist and windy Stage 10 from Rifugio Treviso to Passo Cerada.

Route / Conditions:

• Overview:  The AV2 is a bodily demanding path, which incorporates greater than 23,000 metres (75,459 ft) of mixed altitude acquire and loss. During its course, hikers will negotiate excessive altitude passes, uncovered traverses, steep scree slopes and slim rocky gullies, a few of that are denoted by prolonged sections of Via Ferrata (i.e. “Iron Roads” – protected climbing paths with cables, ladders and iron rungs which might be hooked up to rock partitions).

• History: The Via Ferrata are rather more than an exhilarating approach to expertise the Dolomites breathtaking landscapes. They additionally symbolize a visible reminder of the realm’s bloody historical past. During WW1, the Dolomites have been the scene of fierce battles between the Italian and Austro Hungarian forces. The Via Ferrata have been put in throughout these years as a method of enabling troops faster entry to the entrance line.

• Do I want a helmet and harness?:  It relies upon. Most of the individuals I noticed tackling the Via Ferrata sections on the AV2 gave the impression to be utilizing them. However, I feel if you happen to’re snug negotiating Class 3 and occasional Class 4 sort terrain chances are high you’ll be effective with out them. If heights make you nervous and also you’re not notably sure-footed, than you’re most definitely higher off bringing by way of ferrata gear. Note that in case you are mountaineering out of season in May/early June or October, chances are high you may want traction gadgets as properly (i.e. microspikes and even crampons).

• Navigation:  The path is properly marked from begin to end. The route is marked with pink and whites paint splashes, cairns, and the occasional triangle image with a “2” inside it.

Stage 4 – The steep climb up the Val Setus ravine (be aware the cables and iron rungs)

Going up on Stage 8.

Stage 4 – Topping out at 2610m, after the steep climb up Val Setus. Note the pink/white painted flags which mark a lot of the path.

• How Long will it take?: In the opening “At a Glance” part I point out that the typical AV2 hiker will take 11 to 14 days. Chances are it will embody a relaxation and/or “rain” day (perhaps two). That mentioned, the period of time it takes to complete the AV2 can differ vastly relying on numerous components. Fit and skilled hikers carrying a light-weight pack and who’ve a superb head for heights, can comfortably do the AV2 in six or seven days. On the opposite finish of the spectrum, slower of us who get the brief finish of the meteorological stick and who really feel like doing a number of facet journeys, might take two weeks or extra to finish the path.

• Favourite Sections: My favorite phases on the AV2 have been as follows:

• Stage 5 – Rifugio Pisciadu to Rifugio Castiglioni;
• Stage 8 – Rifugio Mulaz to Rifugio Rosetta;
• Stage 11 – Passo Cereda to Rifugio Boz;
• Stage 12 – Rifugio Boz to Rifugio Dal Piaz

Stage 12 – Rifugio Boz to Rifugio Dal Piaz

Sleeping

Options on the AV2 embody staffed mountain huts, bivouac huts, and wild tenting:

• Mountain Huts: The majority of backpackers within the Dolomites keep within the rifugi (mountain huts). These staffed refuges could be discovered all through the vary, and infrequently boast unimaginable excessive altitude areas, together with spectacular vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and together with in a single day lodging (dormitory and generally non-public rooms), in addition they supply breakfast, lunch and dinner. The greatest worth can normally be discovered within the half-board supply (mezza pensione), which consists of a three-course dinner, a mattress, and breakfast. As of 2019, half-board prices round 45 to 55 Euros. Note that members of the Club Alpino Italiano normally pay round 20% lower than non-members, and people which might be affiliated with sure different European Alpine or Mountain golf equipment (e.g. UK, Austria, German, French), take pleasure in reciprocal rights. During the height season months of July and August, lodging ought to ideally be booked upfront (particularly in case you are mountaineering in a gaggle).

• Bivouac Huts: Unmanned, easy refuges which might be normally open all 12 months spherical. They are sometimes transformed shepherd’s huts or metallic cabins, and the services can differ vastly (i.e. Unlike the Rifugi talked about above, it is best to plan on bringing your personal sleeping bag, mat, and provides). They are free to make use of, and could be a godsend when the weather are raging. Some are situated subsequent to or hooked up to the principle Rifugi, whereas different examples (such because the Bivacco Minazio on Stage 9 and the Bivacco Feltre Bodo on Stage 11 – See photograph under) are located in additional remoted locales.

Stage 4 – Rifugio Puez – Popular with day hikers making the brief stroll in for lunch from Passo Gardena.

Stage 11 – Bivacco Feltre-Bodo

Stage 13 – The remaining hut of the AV2 – Rifugio Dal Piaz

• Wild Camping: Regular readers of ‘The Hiking Life’ knew this bit was coming. While I loved consuming breakfasts and lunches within the huts throughout my time on the AV2 (and AV1), I averted in a single day stays within the huts. The essential causes for that is have been that: A. I don’t sleep properly in dormitories, and; B. If I’m mountaineering within the mountains I desire to sleep exterior each time potential. That being the case, I did what I virtually at all times do – arrange camp at sundown and left the next morning earlier than dawn.

• Is Wild Camping Legal within the Dolomites?:  Officially talking, “camping” – which is seemingly outlined in Italy as staying in the identical tent website for greater than 48 hours – is strictly prohibited. On the opposite hand, the “overnight bivouac” – establishing late and leaving early the next morning is allowed (or at the very least tolerated) so long as you apply LNT rules. See the next article on the hikedolomites.com web site for a extra detailed breakdown.

• Practically talking, I discovered wild tenting within the Dolomites to be much like different Alpine areas I’ve hiked by over time – that’s, so long as you arrange late in a stealthy spot, go away at daybreak the subsequent day, and apply LNT rules always, there aren’t any points. During my journey I met a handful of different campers who like myself encountered no issues following this technique. Indeed, a German couple I met at Passo Cerada, really mentioned that they’d commonly obtained recommendation from the rifugi employees as to the place they may arrange close by, so as in order that they may eat each dinner and breakfast on the huts.

Campsite close to Val Lasties (in accordance with legend, the dwelling place of witches (and wayfaring middle-aged Australians)) on Stage 5.

Camp spot on Stage 8, about 40 min hike from Rifugio Rosetta.

Final Tips for the AV2

1.  Carry a light-weight pack –  There aren’t lots of flat sections on the AV2, and the lighter your pack is, the better the lengthy and steep descents can be. Additionally, a light-weight pack permits for larger freedom of motion and enhances your stability whereas negotiating the uncovered Via Ferrata sections. Note that that is really one of many major advantages of staying completely within the huts – you’ll be able to hike and not using a tent, sleeping bag and cooking/soaking gear.

2.  Timing Your Days:  As is the case just about all around the Alps, many of the hikers you’ll encounter appear to start their mountaineering day round 8 – 9 am, and end someday between 2 and 4 pm, after they arrive at their pre-reserved hut. This implies that the paths are sometimes hiker-free throughout what I contemplate to be the very best occasions of the day (i.e. early morning and late afternoon). From my perspective, herein lies the best good thing about carrying your personal shelter –  freedom. The freedom to come up at daybreak when the birds are singing, and stroll in solitude underneath an infinite ceiling of rising blue. The identical applies to sundown, when the temps are cooler, wildlife reemerging and the sky is popping fifty shades of crimson. These are the occasions once I most wish to be out on the path. Not essentially to cowl extra miles, however as a substitute as a result of it makes me really feel like I’m extra part of the each day miracle that’s unfolding throughout me.

3.  My AV2 Strategy: FWIW, right here’s a tough breakdown of my each day schedule throughout my six days on the AV2:

• Start my mountaineering day at daybreak.

• Usually I’d be camped 30 min to an hour from the subsequent hut, which I’d goal at reaching by 8am on the newest for a morning meal.

• Breakfasts – In basic, brekky on the huts was a combined bag. The good ones included a buffet of cereals, bread, cheeses, meats, a number of cups of espresso, and price round €9 or €10. The not-so-great ones have been of the continental selection consisting of bread, butter, jam, a espresso, and that’s about it. These price €7 or €8 and I invariably left hungry………not likely, as in these circumstances I’d purchase one thing additional to go.

• Lunches – Upon leaving after breakfast I knew roughly how lengthy it might take me to get to the subsequent hut, the place I might cease for a noon/mid-afternoon meal. As lengthy as I obtained there by 2 to 230 pm, I at all times knew they’d nonetheless be serving. Lunches on the Rifugi have been generally dear, however at all times good, with scorching meals setting you again wherever between €10 and €16. I normally added a dessert and a few beers, after which I waddled out €20 to €30 lighter in pocket (however content material of abdomen).

• Dinner –  I’d usually go away my lunch cease with one or two sandwiches (and an overpriced chocolate) to tide me over for the remainder of the day. Looking at my maps, I’d have in my thoughts the areas the place I may most definitely discover a good tenting spot, at which level I’d typically arrive round sundown. The subsequent day I’d get up and do it yet again………..

Cairns and crimson sunrises – Stage 9, AV2.

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